5.6x57 development

[aaronraad]

Aside from lubing the case bodies I also 'dry lube' the neck with some graphite powder to look after the expander button.

I've just bought the little Imperial dry lube application jar, but previously I tipped the graphite powder into it's own lid/nozzle, which was just deep enough to cover a case neck. I just found this post with pics, the first pic even same Bunnings brand blue bottle PowerPlus graphite powder I was using - http://shootingfix.com.au/forum/viewtop ... f=3&t=2034. (I haven't read that entire post so I'm only referencing the images for my post here.)

[The Raven]

Aside from lubing the case bodies I also 'dry lube' the neck with some graphite powder to look after the expander button.

I've just bought the little Imperial dry lube application jar, but previously I tipped the graphite powder into it's own lid/nozzle, which was just deep enough to cover a case neck. I just found this post with pics, the first pic even same Bunnings brand blue bottle PowerPlus graphite powder I was using - http://shootingfix.com.au/forum/viewtop ... f=3&t=2034. (I haven't read that entire post so I'm only referencing the images for my post here.)

Hehehe, the left bottle is 50 years old.....and metric.

Thanks for the info by the way, I haven't looked for graphite powder for a while.

[aaronraad]

Hehehe, the left bottle is 50 years old.....and metric.

Thanks for the info by the way, I haven't looked for graphite powder for a while.

Unless you're a locksmith or like fingerprinting that graphite powder lasts an eternity...even outlast the packaging.

[kickinback]

Waldo, definitely lube inside the case neck. I use lee lube on a cotton bud. Also, strip the decapping assembly from the die, clean the button and give the die a really good clean with brake cleaner/ carny cleaner.

[Branxhunter]

I keep and use graphite powder in an empty plastic .17hmr cartridge box.

Marcus

[Waldo]

I had experimented with a few lubes and had reverted back to one shot spray as it seemed to be working ok till now at least. Anway went back to dipping neck in shot/grahite container then universal sizing on the outside, no issues this time.


Back to annealing I was having trouble getting the colour change I wanted to went to the permanent marker with a thick line down the case from neck to just past end of shoulder, applied heat with case in drill when line vanished down to start of shoulder removed from heat.

Reset dies by winding down to shell holder then backed out one turn. With expander out crawled down with die till it was sizing almost to shoulder, bolt close felt to firm up a bit so backed out a bees dick.

Reset the seating die to suit sized case and backed up full turn the gradually wound down seater to correct height.

I reckon I'm pretty well there, loaded a dummy and it looked pretty good faintest of mark which when I wiped it with a cloth and acetone cleaned up. I reckon if I stared at it long enough I'd probably start to see something??????

One thing I didn't do which I will tomorrow is anneal and size a case and check mouth and see if it tends to close up after sizing, oh well........

Been a lot of stuffing around but now have a butane torch and stuck case removal tool and I've learnt a couple more things so not all bad eh

Cheers
Waldo

[b t]

Easy trick if your worried about the bases is to steal the intergrated spousal units cooking tray and fill it with water to the height you want.... stand your cases in the tray and heat the cases till dull red and then just flick them over...makes it impossible to overcook them.

[220]

I had thought of a neck "flare" type die such as the 45/70 but didn't have a clue as to how to do it with the 5.6.

Its called a lyman M die or one of the calibre specific expanders from NOE for the lee universal flare die.

http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_in ... kfasngq116

[Waldo]

I have had a bit more of a play with annealing just trying to gt the process and result I'm happy with. Had a crack at using a tray of water which I kind of like the result looks as follows:

Only concern is that it seems to have extended down the shell a bit further than I would prefer, appreciate any feedback there?

Did another case with it in the cordless drill (fits nicely into a 12mm socket), here's the result:

Colour change is a bit more subtle and you can see the remnants of the black marker.

It still takes a lot longer than I anticipated well beyond 10 seconds but I think my little butane torch may be struggling there as I don't seem to be able to get a decent flame. I'll whack a pic up from my phone, mmmmm.

Cheers,
Waldo

[Waldo]

Here's the butane torch.

Is it up to the task?

[b t]

That first case is just about perfect for the anneal.

[stinkitup]

I was going to say the annealing on the first one looks how the lapua brass looks when new.

[Waldo]

Looks like in the tin of water is doing the job, may grab a second little burner so I can work from both sides at the same time and do it a bit quicker and with a touch more consistent application of heat.

Cheers,
Waldo

[aaronraad]

Apparently Tempilaq is about the most reliable method aside from dipping the neck in molten lead for the home hand loader.

I still prefer to do my annealing in a dark room with a MAPP gas torch a cordless drill and a bucket of water...with a carefully placed bucket of acetone. Once you get into a rhythm you can drop them into the bucket of water before the colour change gets past the shoulder. Don't drop them in the bucket of acetone straight off the torch. Leave the acetone for the cases once they cool down so you're not having to drive off the water. Acetone has it's own OH&S risks aside from it's flammability so it's not for everyone...or most plastics for that matter.

[DSD]

If you cannot find tempilaq, tempil stix work ok if used correctly. When I started annealing I had 2 stix, 1 750 and 1 450. 750 telling me when the neck was at correct temp to anneal almost instantly and 450 telling me when the body was starting to anneal(takes about 6 hours at this temp). I was paranoid but never got a body to 450. You should be fine as long as you keep the heat high.
Waldo I use a different tip to you but similar to the one chappo posted in his end of year post and from memory 6-7 seconds is long enough for a 22 cal sized neck. Your torch is obviously different but 10 seconds with mine would prob kill cases