Improvments and percentages???????

[Knackers]

G'day fellas, I have a question about improvments to accuracy gains and what percentage of gain can be acheived with each process.
For instance my CZ 527 would shoot about 1.25 moa with run of the mill ammo, and after floating was reduced to about .75- 1 moa = about a 25% improiment.
Developing a hand load for the rifle brought groups consistantly to .5 or under =another 25% improvment.

Wondering about load development with my VSF 22.250, ATM is a sub .5 rifle. Has been bedded, floated, factory trigger worked on, and load development to what I would say as pretty amature reloading practices.

What % of improvments to accuracy would you benchresters apply to the following.
Weighing cases
Case trimming
Using bushing dies
Flash hole uniformity
and any other thing that you can think of.

[Ned Kelly]

G'Day knackers,
I'd deburr the flash holes, uniform the primer pocket both for more consistent ignition followed by carefully monitoring the OAL as large length variations of the brass neck gripping the bullet can cause irregularity in the time a bullet is released and naturally keep them nicely deburred so as not to damage the heel of the bullet when seating them.

My Rem700VS in 22-250 would, with match bullets deliver around .35moa if i did my job. You can get more improvement but the extra effort in my opinion is not worth it, especially if you use the rifle for hunting only.

You are likely to gain more from adjusting the trigger, bedding the action, and making some basic wind flags to practice over. Constant practice will improve your part in the process of shooting, long with good ammo and a well set up rifle.

As for percentages each improvement is worth, I cant say but they get smaller and smaller the more you do to the point where it is a moot point! Far better to be practicing in the wind, wear out the factory barrel and get a new match grade tube fitted!

Hope this helps,

Cheerio Ned

[Knackers]

Thanks Ned I have shot many groups at .320, but cant say it is absoulutely consistant.
I once read an article where the owner of a .223 id tests after every improvement and found that after a while (as you said) the amount of money spent and work done, was not worth the tiny incements in accuracy after Bedding, trigger, floating.
All of the above changes gave improvments in the teens and twenties percentage area, but action truing, fire lapping, lock time etc, only gave increases around 1-2%.

Thats why I was asking if the reloading stage of the operation has a point where the effort isn't worth the results gained, but at the same time squeezing every ounce of accuracy out of the rifle.

Its sound like I might of reached the smallest groups that I'm going to with this rifle, and should take your advice about practicing in the wind.

[woob614271]

Talking to those who know better than me; I've been led to believe that unless you go the full custom/BR route with the rifle, you'll eventually get to the stage that Ned Kelly identified; percentages so small tha tthe money and time spent becomes too much.
If you really want to push the envelope, batch your brass and projectiles; the former by weighing the case empty and/or with a of full case of water; and use electronic gizmos (aJR has one) to ensure uniform case wall thickness; the latter by check-weighing and meplat uniforming them, again aJR has built uniformers, and I suspect other specialising 'smiths make them too. (try Sinclairs).
Hope this helps; I'm still a novice in this field!

[Ned Kelly]

G'Day all,
to give you an example, myself and now my brother, have used factory rifles on rabbits and foxes. If the rifle is capable of 0.5moa, then get to use it regularly in all kinds of weather.

In the BR game we always say beware the man with one gun.........he will usually beat you as he knows how to use it.

Likewise with hunting, know your rifle, test it in crap wind, shoot long range ie 2-300yds, how far does the bullet move in the wind, create your own range card by zeroing at say 200, and then see where the bullets print at 50, 100, 150, 250, 300. Keep this info in your shooting box for quick reference, but ideally learn it from regular shooting and estimating ranges in all types of wind strength and wind directions.

That is the key to bringing home the bacon. Practice and then it becomes second nature, instinctive shooting, you KNOW where to hold to hit your target.

Hope this helps

Cheerio Ned

[Rinso]

knackers,

Whilst I firmly believe that neck turning, annealing etc belongs strictly in Comp shooting .. mostly because its tedious and you need to buy tools to do it ... meaning you have to be a machocist in the first place but anyway ..

You CZ is shooting well enough IMHO for varmiting as it stands now. If you really want to do a bit, batch your brass and uniform flash holes & primer pockets .. why .. because they are one off jobs.

You will have to trim eventually anyway just make sure that you keep the case mouths square as well as having equal length.

Anything else is not worth the trouble unless shooting a BR match, the point of no worthwhile return is very close for varmiting in BR Comp a thousandth makes a difference that a bunny will never recognize

cheers
Rinso

[Knackers]

No Rinso I'm talking bout gains for my Rem VSF250, the CZ's fine for what I use it for .
The Rem has had 750 rounds through it and ther've all been on paper except for one crow

[Rinso]

knackers,

Same answer different rifle

cheers
Rinso