G'day All
I would like to know if anyone has finished a slee gunstock and could you outline your plan of attack and a few pics.
I have a shilen BR thumbhole pattern stock inletted for a Anschutz 54 action.
Regards
Damien Webb.
Advice on finishing a Geoff slee gunstock.??Pictures Added.!
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native hunter
- .270 Winchester
- Posts: 1435
- Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2006 1:07 pm
- Favourite Cartridge: .22lr
- Location: Ballina
Advice on finishing a Geoff slee gunstock.??Pictures Added.!
Last edited by native hunter on Fri Sep 07, 2007 1:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Dave.223
- .220 Swift
- Posts: 637
- Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2006 2:22 pm
- Favourite Cartridge: 6mmBR
- Location: Melbourne
Gday Damien.
I've got a laminated one that is currently with Shane. When he finishes the rifle I'm going to seal it with a normal floor sealer and then sand it. Then I'll repeat the process a few times. To finish it off I'll use multiple coats of clear between sanding.
Nowadays clear does not have to be sprayed but can be applied with a clean piece of rag, using a new water based clear coat which is made by Cabots.
There's already some new reasons for me to go to Bunnings with the credit card.
Good luck.
Dave
I've got a laminated one that is currently with Shane. When he finishes the rifle I'm going to seal it with a normal floor sealer and then sand it. Then I'll repeat the process a few times. To finish it off I'll use multiple coats of clear between sanding.
Nowadays clear does not have to be sprayed but can be applied with a clean piece of rag, using a new water based clear coat which is made by Cabots.
There's already some new reasons for me to go to Bunnings with the credit card.
Good luck.
Dave
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trevort
- Spud Gun
- Posts: 12710
- Joined: Thu Sep 14, 2006 9:21 pm
- Favourite Cartridge: Tater
- Location: Melbourne
Re: advice on finishing a Geoff slee gunstock.??
my plan is pay Geoff to do it!native hunter wrote:G'day All
I would like to know if anyone has finished a slee gunstock and could you outline your plan of attack and a few pics.
I have a shilen BR thumbhole pattern stock inletted for a Anschutz 54 action.
Regards
Damien Webb.
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native hunter
- .270 Winchester
- Posts: 1435
- Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2006 1:07 pm
- Favourite Cartridge: .22lr
- Location: Ballina
G"day All
I have just spent the better part of 3.5 hours sanding and shaping and I can tell you my right hand is shaking just trying to write here.
I must say it has come up better than I thought.
I will need to make a few inserts for the bedding pillars and a small recoil lug inserted into the stock, not sure what to do for a butt plate yet.
This stock is XXwalnut.
I am thinking what shape I need to lop the fore end of at, maybe 25 degree angle from the top toward the front and then cut off straight.(if you can understand that.!!)
I am still undecided on trigger guard, it looks as though that I will need a guard with a long leading edge so that when it is recessed into the stock it can also be used to put the rear bedding screw through.
I will put up some piccys when I can.
PS I want to just stain this stock but dont know much about wood so a trip to the furniture building place might be in order.
Thanks all
Damien Webb.
I have just spent the better part of 3.5 hours sanding and shaping and I can tell you my right hand is shaking just trying to write here.
I must say it has come up better than I thought.
I will need to make a few inserts for the bedding pillars and a small recoil lug inserted into the stock, not sure what to do for a butt plate yet.
This stock is XXwalnut.
I am thinking what shape I need to lop the fore end of at, maybe 25 degree angle from the top toward the front and then cut off straight.(if you can understand that.!!)
I am still undecided on trigger guard, it looks as though that I will need a guard with a long leading edge so that when it is recessed into the stock it can also be used to put the rear bedding screw through.
I will put up some piccys when I can.
PS I want to just stain this stock but dont know much about wood so a trip to the furniture building place might be in order.
Thanks all
Damien Webb.
Last edited by native hunter on Fri Sep 07, 2007 1:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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diamond T
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native hunter
- .270 Winchester
- Posts: 1435
- Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2006 1:07 pm
- Favourite Cartridge: .22lr
- Location: Ballina
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diamond T
http://ausvarmint.kjd84.com/forum/viewt ... highlight=
Before i start, let me just say i am a woodwork clutz who struggled to pass manual arts at school 20 years ago, however i wanted a nice timber stock & the only cost effective option was to buy a unfinished one & do the job myself.
The first thing i did was check the inleting as its no good spending hours sanding only to find out that it was cut for a different action! A fair bit of work was needed removing wood so that everything fit & worked without binding.
Next i got stuck into shaping the stock with what ever i could find in the shed, my wife was shocked when she came out to find me bashing away on my new custom stock with a big chisel & mallet. As i asked for a wider forend it came just cut square & straight so it needed to be rounded off. After this i spent what seemed a eternity sanding, starting with very coarse paper to smooth all the lumps & bumps, down to the finest paper i could find.
To get a idea what the finish & grain will be like, wipe it with a rag wet with turps, this will show up any sanding scratches as well.
The next step is very important & needs to be done properly. The stock will need to be sealed & the grain filled, to seal it i used tung oil diluted 1part to 4parts turps & gave it as many coats as it would take letting it soak in overnight, then again 2:1 mix, then again with staight tung oil.
To fill the grain i wet sanded with tung oil & fine sandpaper, doing a small area at a time, sanding up a bit of a slurry & gently wiping it across the grain. i let it dry & wiped the whole thing with a clean rag & then another half dozen coats of straight tung oil & put it aside to dry for a week before polishing with a furniture wax.
My method is by no means gospel, its just the way i chose to do it & i'm sure there are many different opinions out there.
Also the bedding should be done before sealing, which i did, however i wasn't happy with the brownells kit job & the action holes didn't line up perfect, so i machined up some stainless steel pillars & re-bedded the whole thing with devon, a far better product.
Thats about it in a nutshell, so now i've a nice xxx stock & strong arms from sanding, hope this helps a bit,
cheers DT
Before i start, let me just say i am a woodwork clutz who struggled to pass manual arts at school 20 years ago, however i wanted a nice timber stock & the only cost effective option was to buy a unfinished one & do the job myself.
The first thing i did was check the inleting as its no good spending hours sanding only to find out that it was cut for a different action! A fair bit of work was needed removing wood so that everything fit & worked without binding.
Next i got stuck into shaping the stock with what ever i could find in the shed, my wife was shocked when she came out to find me bashing away on my new custom stock with a big chisel & mallet. As i asked for a wider forend it came just cut square & straight so it needed to be rounded off. After this i spent what seemed a eternity sanding, starting with very coarse paper to smooth all the lumps & bumps, down to the finest paper i could find.
To get a idea what the finish & grain will be like, wipe it with a rag wet with turps, this will show up any sanding scratches as well.
The next step is very important & needs to be done properly. The stock will need to be sealed & the grain filled, to seal it i used tung oil diluted 1part to 4parts turps & gave it as many coats as it would take letting it soak in overnight, then again 2:1 mix, then again with staight tung oil.
To fill the grain i wet sanded with tung oil & fine sandpaper, doing a small area at a time, sanding up a bit of a slurry & gently wiping it across the grain. i let it dry & wiped the whole thing with a clean rag & then another half dozen coats of straight tung oil & put it aside to dry for a week before polishing with a furniture wax.
My method is by no means gospel, its just the way i chose to do it & i'm sure there are many different opinions out there.
Also the bedding should be done before sealing, which i did, however i wasn't happy with the brownells kit job & the action holes didn't line up perfect, so i machined up some stainless steel pillars & re-bedded the whole thing with devon, a far better product.
Thats about it in a nutshell, so now i've a nice xxx stock & strong arms from sanding, hope this helps a bit,
cheers DT
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woob614271
- 17Rem
- Posts: 1123
- Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2007 8:49 pm
- Favourite Cartridge: 17Rem, 22.250AI, 308
- Location: townsville qld
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native hunter
- .270 Winchester
- Posts: 1435
- Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2006 1:07 pm
- Favourite Cartridge: .22lr
- Location: Ballina
G"Day All
I have added a few piccy's back up the thread a bit.
It's a long way from being finished , I am waiting on a trigger guard so I can proceed a bit further.
Going to get a but cap today and then fit it.
Once I have the trigger guard I can pillar bed the rifle and then finish the stock.
Regards
Damien Webb.
I have added a few piccy's back up the thread a bit.
It's a long way from being finished , I am waiting on a trigger guard so I can proceed a bit further.
Going to get a but cap today and then fit it.
Once I have the trigger guard I can pillar bed the rifle and then finish the stock.
Regards
Damien Webb.