If I wanted to get a barrel cherocoted would I have to remove said barrel from action,
Does screwing the barrel back in damage the finish?
Ol 55
Adamjp
- JasonF
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Re: Adamjp
Gary, Adam is offline at the moment, so he might take a while to respond.
I had him coat the barrels on my Pierce switchbarrel and in my experience the answers are 1) yes, and 2) no - the finish is tough enough to withstand gentle use of the barrel vice.
Cheers, Jason.
I had him coat the barrels on my Pierce switchbarrel and in my experience the answers are 1) yes, and 2) no - the finish is tough enough to withstand gentle use of the barrel vice.
Cheers, Jason.
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Re: Adamjp
Thanks Jason that's what I thought.
Cheers
Gary
Cheers
Gary
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Re: Adamjp
Gary, I believe from a previous post of Adams that a wrap of paper around the barrel before putting it in the vise is the way to go to avoid ceracote damage.
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Re: Adamjp
It is not essential, but I prefer to remove the barrel as it ensures a better quality job in the end.
Obviously, some rifles cannot have the barrel removed without major irreversible work so they are done connected. Since the whole barrelled action must be baked first to remove any oil/grease in the action joint, there is no time saved at all in doing it this way.
Putting the barrel back in can be tricky, but smart use of paper or cardboard to buffer the newly coated barrel will prevent marking.
Obviously, some rifles cannot have the barrel removed without major irreversible work so they are done connected. Since the whole barrelled action must be baked first to remove any oil/grease in the action joint, there is no time saved at all in doing it this way.
Putting the barrel back in can be tricky, but smart use of paper or cardboard to buffer the newly coated barrel will prevent marking.
- mick_762
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Re: Adamjp
What sort of action / barrel prep do you prefer to have done prior to you receiving the them Adam?
Contemplating a cerakote job on the Norma.
Contemplating a cerakote job on the Norma.
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Re: Adamjp
Mick, the preparation for cerakoting is essentially a three step process.
1. Strip rifle, degrease and dry. This gets all the bits apart and removes all oils/grease.
2. Wire the bits up (for ease of handling), plug the barrel, and sandblast.
3. Clean with acetone, remove leftover sand residue, organise (cerakote or microslick), and then paint.
From the first step handling must be careful as rust will start quickly without any preservative oils, even quicker once you blast the blueing off the action.
For this reason it is best if the rifle arrives as one piece with oil on it. If you want, you can stirp it into parts, but you would be surprised how many people don't know how to do that, or don't have the tools to do it properly.
1. Strip rifle, degrease and dry. This gets all the bits apart and removes all oils/grease.
2. Wire the bits up (for ease of handling), plug the barrel, and sandblast.
3. Clean with acetone, remove leftover sand residue, organise (cerakote or microslick), and then paint.
From the first step handling must be careful as rust will start quickly without any preservative oils, even quicker once you blast the blueing off the action.
For this reason it is best if the rifle arrives as one piece with oil on it. If you want, you can stirp it into parts, but you would be surprised how many people don't know how to do that, or don't have the tools to do it properly.
- mick_762
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Re: Adamjp
Yeah that would be meadamjp wrote: If you want, you can stirp it into parts, but you would be surprised how many people don't know how to do that, or don't have the tools to do it properly.
Cheers mate, will be in touch re pricing / mail / etc soon.
Still waiting on PTA etc for the action and the barrel to get in from the US via Seddo.
Mick