Brass Prep

[Camel]

Hey Mick, the shaking comes in handy when I need to get an even coverage of the flame. Fuck orf

[mick_762]

Haha good to see that the parkinsons comes in handy camel.

Forgot to add to my earlier post that my Magnetospeed V1, will be available for members use at the Buffathon cause YES I am one of those who has shot the sh@t out of chrony's

Just remind me to pack it closer to the date that will be set, I am prone to "oldtimers" disease and will forget.

Mick

[feralbuster]

why did you feel you had to anneal the 338-06 cases Camel?

I have one, and just neck down 35 whelen brass.

Its a nice cartridge though, I'm running the 200grain woodleighs (made for the 338-06 & 338 fed), and some barnes X 225s, though I'm keen to try some 200grain ACPs soon, as people have been getting great accuracy out of those, with great kills when the reach their target

[Camel]

The brass that was given to me by Daisy was of unknown loading history, didn't want any splitting before I even got to fire them, I figured it wouldn't hurt.

Agree with you, it is a nice cartridge, although I haven't pointed it at any critters yet, I think it will do me nicely. I have some 180 and 200 gn Woodlieghs to try out later on, and also like the look and sound of the ACPs, but seeing as I got over 300 speer 200gn hotcores with the rifle, they will be what I use for a fair while I think.

[feralbuster]

Have you worked out what velocities you might be getting out of it camel? I need to crony mine sometime, but I'm confident that its good for 2900fps with a 200grainer

[Camel]

No I haven't mate, don't have access to a crono so I just go on what they say in various books, should be good for around 27 to 2800 fps, but should do the trick.

[trevort]

No I haven't mate, don't have access to a crono so I just go on what they say in various books, should be good for around 27 to 2800 fps, but should do the trick.

Do you ever deliver Rabbits to Melbourne?

You can pick up my CED and give it back whenever

[Camel]

Thanks for the offer Trev, very much appreciated, Im not worried what velocity I get in this cannon, its gunna put a lot of hurt on whatever I manage to stick a projectile into. Some where down the track I will eventually get hold of a Magnetospeed thingo whatchamacallit and check.

I haven't been to Melbourne since around 1979, haven't had any reason to go down there, the vast majority of our rabbits are sent out to wholesalers.

[big G]

May be a silly question regarding annealing your brass for the 338/06.I have seen photo's of shells sitting in water, with approx 3/4 shell coverage to be knocked over after heating.I noticed in your photo your let the shells cool at room air temp. Is that cos your 30/06 brass is thicker than say a 22 hornet shell which needs to be cooled quicker so heat remains on the upper most part of case.?.Formed some Remington 22 hornet brass to K hornet without annealing.Have only fired the brass twice since fire forming,no split necks yet.May be I should have a go at annealing , just haven't been confident to light a hot burny blow torch after burning my self with a red head as a 5 year old. George

[Camel]

G'day George, I personally don't think that cases need to be standing in water to stop the heat getting to the head of the case. As soon as the heat source is removed, the temperature in the brass starts to rapidly drop to below the temperature that is required to stop the heat transfer. I drop them onto a cloth so they slide down onto the concrete floor, again the temperature drops more. I really think it is probably more important to get an even distribution of the heat around the case neck than worrying if the heat gets too far down the case, especially in a long case like the 30-06, the concrete draws the temp out of the brass quickly.

When I have formed brass for my 5.7mm Johnson, necking down from 30M1 brass, I hold them in my fingers at the rim of the case, I can assure you that I let go of them long before the temperature anywhere near the head of the case gets too much.
I'm not an expert on the dark art of case annealing, but have read so many different ways that I thought I would try the quickest and easiest, which has worked for me so far. I may be in for a kick in the teeth one of these days, but I will continue to do it this way until it stuffs up. One thing is that I do watch the colour change very carefully. I count to 6 for my 20/222 brass and I think it was 8 for the 30-06 stuff

The best thing is that I was using tools that I already have and don't have to buy anything, I even rigged up a system to fill the little LPG bottle from a BBQ gas bottle.

The first time I tried annealing was in around 1988 when I had a Hornet rechambered to the K version, my brass was about 5 firings old, did the stand in the water trick, never knew if I did it right but I didn't loose any brass from split necks but did loose a fair few to loose primer pockets after 5 or 6 more firings.

Of course others will differ from my views, but hey, they are allowed to be wrong.

[big G]

G'day George, I personally don't think that cases need to be standing in water to stop the heat getting to the head of the case. As soon as the heat source is removed, the temperature in the brass starts to rapidly drop to below the temperature that is required to stop the heat transfer. I drop them onto a cloth so they slide down onto the concrete floor, again the temperature drops more. I really think it is probably more important to get an even distribution of the heat around the case neck than worrying if the heat gets too far down the case, especially in a long case like the 30-06, the concrete draws the temp out of the brass quickly.

When I have formed brass for my 5.7mm Johnson, necking down from 30M1 brass, I hold them in my fingers at the rim of the case, I can assure you that I let go of them long before the temperature anywhere near the head of the case gets too much.
I'm not an expert on the dark art of case annealing, but have read so many different ways that I thought I would try the quickest and easiest, which has worked for me so far. I may be in for a kick in the teeth one of these days, but I will continue to do it this way until it stuffs up. One thing is that I do watch the colour change very carefully. I count to 6 for my 20/222 brass and I think it was 8 for the 30-06 stuff

The best thing is that I was using tools that I already have and don't have to buy anything, I even rigged up a system to fill the little LPG bottle from a BBQ gas bottle.

The first time I tried annealing was in around 1988 when I had a Hornet rechambered to the K version, my brass was about 5 firings old, did the stand in the water trick, never knew if I did it right but I didn't loose any brass from split necks but did loose a fair few to loose primer pockets after 5 or 6 more firings.

Of course others will differ from my views, but hey, they are allowed to be wrong.

Thanks for clearing that up for me.