How to build a spring press

[Dennis La Varenne]

This subject has possibly been done to death elsewhere, but I have found out recently that my meagre 54kg bodyweight is not enough to push in a new air rifle spring even on the older English air rifles like my Webleys and BSA stovepipes.

Anybody got a nice simple drawing of one so I can build it. I am pretty handy with handtools.

[daisy]

Here's one
http://home.comcast.net/~pelletgunn/jig.htm

or you can go to http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/ and do a search for spring compressor

Daisy

[Dennis La Varenne]

Thank you Daisy.

I did a bit of looking around last night and found a couple based on using a G-clamp instead of the threaded bar in the home.comcast.net site

The home.comcast version is a bit more sophisticated if you can get the long threaded rod from somewhere. The other sites seem NOT to think that the barrel needs dismounting from the cylinder for the job and leave the breech closed and in place but supported I thought.

Today, I purchased a 400mm G-clamp which I thought should be long enough for a great many spring lengths. All I have to do now is to build one. I know that I will be installing a bit more substantial turning rod through my G-clamp screw, or that I will be mounting a very large tap handle threaded onto the existing screw so I can get a bit of 'leverage' so to speak.

[Camel]

If you are looking for threaded rod, you should be able to get it from any hardware/engineering supply joint. We can even get it out here in Hillston.

[Dennis La Varenne]

Camel,

Thank you too. After I get a threaded rod, I will need something through which to screw it and which can be mounted on the base of course. I suppose an engineering shop can make me something that simple.

[uncakikki]

Threaded rod can be sourced pretty easily from most Hardware shops (Bunnings carries plenty of it) in most of the "common" sizes. Just make sure you lubricate the threads well with a good anti sieze grease so that it doesn't gall and bind up thus destroying itself !

[greyskull]

I have for many years used a "sash cramp", as used to repair wooden sash windows. Commonly available cheaply at Supercheap auto stores etc etc.

Laid down on a firm bench, some wooden v blocks placed appropriately, its a solid powerful and safe spring compressor. a U bolt can be used to secure it permanently to a bench. Wooden V blocks centralise the air rifle chamber, and as it is solid and stable, you can leave the barrel in place. Though if you are replacing piston seals the barrel pivot will have to be undone at some point.

It is adjustable for length too.

my 2 cents

GS

[Camel]

Camel,

Thank you too. After I get a threaded rod, I will need something through which to screw it and which can be mounted on the base of course. I suppose an engineering shop can make me something that simple.

You can make bolcks out of hard wood with a hole drilled through that is under thread size, then use the threaded rod as a tap to put the threat through the wood. My old man used to do this when he wanted to clamp something that was an odd shape, worked a treat. camel

[Dennis La Varenne]

Greyskull,

Lewis has said he will send me drawings of the Beeman compressor, but I was originally thinking of a 'sash cramp' before I started surfing the web and this site for a plan to make one. I couldn't remember the name of the blessed things for the life of me, so I just gave up. I remember when I was a kid that my old man had them for large work. (Do you have Supercheap Autos over there too ??? The buggers are everywhere !!)

Camel,
That threaded wood block is a clever idea. If it is long enough and through some pretty dense and sound hardwood, it should work a treat even on airgun springs with complete safety. Some metal strapping around the block against splitting would not go astray either.

All this is getting very interesting indeed.

[Camel]

Dennis, the old man never used to build much out of steel as he didnt have the tools but some of the wood products he made were pretty impressive i.e. all wood, except for bearings and centres, wood lathe, bearing housings were made out of hardwood from old fence posts. Bench vice from iron bark slabs and the screw rod from an old holden jack. wish I had his talent and ideas. I think you should be able to get threaded rod about three feet long, which should be long enough for a spring press. If you use wood for the screw blocks make the hole you drill as tight a fit as you can get the rod into, also use some sort of lube (old man used mutton fat) should be no probs. good luck, camel

[greyskull]

Greyskull,

Lewis has said he will send me drawings of the Beeman compressor, but I was originally thinking of a 'sash cramp' before I started surfing the web and this site for a plan to make one. I couldn't remember the name of the blessed things for the life of me, so I just gave up. I remember when I was a kid that my old man had them for large work. (Do you have Supercheap Autos over there too ??? The buggers are everywhere !!)

All this is getting very interesting indeed.

Yes I have had this particular "Record" cramp a while,passed to me after Dad Died. Earliest memories are of him using it to make a table for Mother's day.

Since then I've used it to repair windows, put springs back into Motorcycle forks, and repair airguns. Handy thing.......its older than me and still in better condition.


Supercheap are indeed over here........

GS

[Dennis La Varenne]

Greyskull and others,

Lewis had just sent me a Beeman catalogue for the R10 which has an ingenious double vice setup which uses the one to hold the air rifle and the other mounted 90 degrees to the first one and a bit larger which uses the back end of its sliding cramp (not the moving jaw end) or whatever it is called as the compressor, but with a protective block of wood mounted on it. Very clever indeed and would have huge compressor capacity for very heavy springs indeed.

[Dennis La Varenne]

Gentlemen all,

I have decided on this option for a spring press. It is a very simple sash cramp, is highly portable and ridiculously easy to make with basic tools. The sash cramp itself is available from a place called "Timbecon" which you can google and is financially a very dangerous place for us blokes . The cost of the cramps is $25 in rounded numbers excluding postage.

The slide is a piece of wood 25mm in thickness and of whatever width for rigidity which can be drilled with 1/2" holes at suitable intervals. The jaws can easily be padded. The whole can be held in a bench vice. A picture from the Timbecon site is attached.

It has a screw which is longer than just about any on the sash cramps I have found commercially so far. Installing the screw end of the cramp as far out to the end of the slide board as possible will allow the screw to be turned without interference from the slide. It can be seen from the picture how far it can be installed and still take up the load strain while a spring is being compressed or released.

This little gadget seems to be pretty good value for what it is and I cannot see any reason why it would not work fine unless the material is very brittle iron or plastic. The piece of hardwood in the picture is supposed to be 25mm thick x 38mm wide. Wider would make for greater rigidity and it would not be difficult to have it made from metal if required. A four foot length of hardwood would just about take care of any length springer I guess so long as the screw is long enough to compress whatever length of spring outside the cylinder. The screw looks to be around 100mm long with about 80 - 90 usable cramping length.

If anybody has any thoughts on the above, I would appreciate them. Outside of the possibility of breakage, I cannot see any particular problems with this tool.

[uncakikki]

Dennis,

You are right about "Timbecon" being a dangerous place for us "men" folk!!!!! I have dealt with Robert for a number of years and have had nothing but joy (He is the Lewis of the woodworking world) If you subscribe to his monthly news letter I guarantee your credit card will get a work out