advice needed

[adamjp]

I looked into this not long ago but decided I didn't need to do it. (MISSED will tell you I don't need another gun)

There is a specific wrench for the Savage barrel nut.
A headspace gauge is actually two metal slugs. A GO gauge and a NO-GO gauge. When the GO gauge is in the chamber, the bolt should close. Remove the GO gauge, and put the NO-GO in. The bolt should not close. This ensures that when you fire the cartridge it won't come apart inside the barrel.

There is only a couple of thou between a GO and a NO-GO.

To change barrels....

Remove the scope.
Take the action out of the stock.
Using the wrench loosen the nut and remove it and then the barrel.

Put the new barrel into place, fit the nut up but don't tighten it.
Put the GO headspace gauge in the chamber and close the bolt.
Push the barrel back against the bolt.
Nip the nut up tight.
Remove the GO and put in the NO-GO.
Try and close the bolt - it should not close. If it does you need to start again.

Put the barreled action back in the stock, fit the right scope.

Check your Zero (the savage system does not have a return to zero feature like gigabuck european rifles) and HUNT.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2330 ... BARREL_KIT

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=1051 ... vage_Rifle

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=1038 ... m___Part_I

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=1038 ... ___Part_II

[stinkitup]

Adam's account looks good.

I just pulled a barrel from a LRPV, I made up a barrel vise from some heavy ally plate and some stainless threaded rod. This was just stuff I had and not the best but I did get it loose and they say the factory barrels are the hardest.

From reading the savage shooters forum, a lot of guys only take the nut back up to hand tight or hand tight and a quick wrap from a mallet etc

Also some use a fired case with some tape on it to check head space but the go-no go gauges would be best and with the dollar up they would be cheap, a 308 and 22-250 combo would work nicely too.

Beauty of the 30-06 as you get a cal you can shoot anything with plus the long action means more options too, if you like the short action then the 308 would be a good pick, could easily have 308, 243, 22-250/223 and a 20 cal barrel. shooters.com.au have I think adam and bennet (could be slightly wrong name ) savage barrels that will suit the stevens I think for under $200 at the moment. Not sure of quality or they have shillens for around the 500 mark so could get a 200 with a scope for I think under $600 plus a shillen for 500 so 1100 for two calibers plus the other stuff for the swap over.

You can prob also find someone selling an accutrigger from a savage as some don't like them and fit it up to the stevens.

I could possibly help with the plate for a vise for ya since you are moving closer then you just need some studs or threaded rod and nuts etc Need to go minimum 1/2 inch I think and High Tensile, I only had 3/8 stainless on hand and it got bent but did the trick..... just! Oh and I won't be needing my barrel nut wrench any time soon.

I would do a stevens myself but funds a tight and my mauser shoots to well.

Ryan

[Buffy]

Thanks for the great info fellas, however this thread may have just gone downhill...... Rinso and i have been talking....... now to talk to the boss....


i will be doing the switch barrel thing for sure, its just a matter of getting a tac driver that i can depend on first.... thats not to say the stevens arn't accurate, as my 308 shot minute of pig all day long... but since i will be moving to NSW the game species has changed and the stevens may not have the accuracy i want out of the box....

Cheers BB

[adamjp]

Have a gander at these two you tube videos by the same bloke. He covers two methods for swapping a Savage/Stevens barrel. A modified method two is the way to go.

Instead of using the action wrench, put the barrel in a vise (any old vise with padding on the jaws) and use it as the solid reference point to torque the wrench against.

MeCaeoNNREg

[stinkitup]

Buff Buster, I can't see you being sorry with Rinso's 25/06.

Adam you shouldn't post video's like that, will get me thinking again

To get the nut of the initial action/barrel you will prob need a vise as they can be bloody tight and from reading the bluing process can get into the threads and make it harder again but once done that looks like a top way. Maybe a bit more than he nips it up but after all its a lock nut so should be enough if you keep and eye on it.