Ned & TZ,
I honestly.... have never seen it........prolly 'cause I am pretty inexperienced at this long range stuff.
I will certainly be looking at Batemans but the air will probably be too cool to show it...I presume that would be a factor....as in the warmer the air the more moisture present
I have seen bullets vapourise in a nice blue streak in front of me, but they have never made the target...this has really got me sucked in, I really want to witness it now
Yeah Woob I agree
KY
Light Guns & STATS
- Ned Kelly
- .270 Winchester
- Posts: 1277
- Joined: Tue Oct 31, 2006 6:39 am
- Favourite Cartridge: 6PPC
- Location: Macedon Ranges Vic
G'Day Kenny,
what you are looking for is the shock waves that are attached to the bullet (at the tip and heel of the bullet). They are very dense air and as a consequence they distort the path of the light though the shock wave allowing you to see the trace much like a bow wave on a boat speeding away from you.
This is why the spark photography of supersonic bullets is actually of the shadow of the bullet and its shockwaves. The light from the high intensity spark doesn't seem to be able to penetrate the shock wave thus causing a shadow that you can photograph with the right gear (the old box brownie can't cope!)
Hope this explains it a little more.
Cheerio Ned
what you are looking for is the shock waves that are attached to the bullet (at the tip and heel of the bullet). They are very dense air and as a consequence they distort the path of the light though the shock wave allowing you to see the trace much like a bow wave on a boat speeding away from you.
This is why the spark photography of supersonic bullets is actually of the shadow of the bullet and its shockwaves. The light from the high intensity spark doesn't seem to be able to penetrate the shock wave thus causing a shadow that you can photograph with the right gear (the old box brownie can't cope!)
Hope this explains it a little more.
Cheerio Ned
Hey Kenny
I believe the trick is to have your spotting scope slightly out of focus. I have watched the guys here in Townsville in one of the 600yd matches through a spotting scope. I could see the trail enter the sight image of the scope till the bullet entered the focused area of the image which was pretty much the last bit of the flight before the bullet was on the target plane.
I haven't had the chance to do it again but reckon if you were to focus just behind the target you would see it all the way to the target. Was pretty cool to see as I had read and heard about it.
I believe the trick is to have your spotting scope slightly out of focus. I have watched the guys here in Townsville in one of the 600yd matches through a spotting scope. I could see the trail enter the sight image of the scope till the bullet entered the focused area of the image which was pretty much the last bit of the flight before the bullet was on the target plane.
I haven't had the chance to do it again but reckon if you were to focus just behind the target you would see it all the way to the target. Was pretty cool to see as I had read and heard about it.
Kenny
TZ is about to give it all back . Then I just have to finish inletting the barrelled action into the stock, finalise the stock shape up and apply a finish.
Probably only about 40 hrs work left but going hammer for tong to be ready for the July SOTY up here in TSV.
Any tips on polishing up cast alloy??
TZ is about to give it all back . Then I just have to finish inletting the barrelled action into the stock, finalise the stock shape up and apply a finish.
Probably only about 40 hrs work left but going hammer for tong to be ready for the July SOTY up here in TSV.
Any tips on polishing up cast alloy??
- Kenny
- 6mm Remington
- Posts: 717
- Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2006 12:55 pm
- Favourite Cartridge: 6mmPPC
- Location: In the Doghouse
Albow,
WOOO HOOO on the gun be sure to post some pics for us when you are done won't ya
Polishing = elbow grease
I am sure there is a better way and hopefully someone will pop in with a better idea.....
All I do is - if it's fairly rough I wet and dry the item, working down in paper grade until it is smooth...then whack a buffing wheel in my drill press with some'Autosol' metal polish on the item. Usually after 3 or 4 applications of polish and buffing...VOILA nice and shiny
It seems to last for ages before needing another polish....alloy that is, but with Brass I found some clear coat over the polished item works a treat...would prolly work over the alloy even better....
KY
WOOO HOOO on the gun be sure to post some pics for us when you are done won't ya
Polishing = elbow grease
I am sure there is a better way and hopefully someone will pop in with a better idea.....
All I do is - if it's fairly rough I wet and dry the item, working down in paper grade until it is smooth...then whack a buffing wheel in my drill press with some'Autosol' metal polish on the item. Usually after 3 or 4 applications of polish and buffing...VOILA nice and shiny
It seems to last for ages before needing another polish....alloy that is, but with Brass I found some clear coat over the polished item works a treat...would prolly work over the alloy even better....
KY
- Ackley Improved
- 6mm Dasher
- Posts: 1898
- Joined: Wed Aug 09, 2006 12:24 pm
- Location: Albury
I polished a set of alloy rims for my car once. Sounded like a good idea at the time.. 75% of the way through, gave up and took it to someone to complete.
As what Kenny said, wet n dry sand paper, finishing on 1200 grit. Then a metal polish, and believe me, dont do this part by hand. You can get it shiney, but with a electric device, it ends up brighter, ands it quicker by a mile.
I did find that when you are usingt he 1200 paper, make sure no liitle piece of crap ends up on what you are sanding or on the paper, as then you sand in scratches, that then you have to sand out.
Honestly, it drive me mad doing the rims... but a small rifle part... you'll be right!
Cheers
AI
As what Kenny said, wet n dry sand paper, finishing on 1200 grit. Then a metal polish, and believe me, dont do this part by hand. You can get it shiney, but with a electric device, it ends up brighter, ands it quicker by a mile.
I did find that when you are usingt he 1200 paper, make sure no liitle piece of crap ends up on what you are sanding or on the paper, as then you sand in scratches, that then you have to sand out.
Honestly, it drive me mad doing the rims... but a small rifle part... you'll be right!
Cheers
AI
- Ackley Improved
- 6mm Dasher
- Posts: 1898
- Joined: Wed Aug 09, 2006 12:24 pm
- Location: Albury