AusVarmint

Without upsetting you lot to much, was looking at trying to make my own timber stock for Remmy and just looking for some starting pointers.

I can get some timber to practice on but just wondering bout sizes and things like that.

I've watched a few YouTube videos and have a bit of an idea just after some pointers.

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For a first up try doing something like this, I would suggest you get onto Cameron Hatcher or Ned Kelly, both members on here, and get them to do up a roughed out stock for you with their pantograph machines. That way you will have the basics done for you and a lot of the intricate details in the inlet done as well. Its no simple task making a stock from scratch, I for one wouldn't try as I know I don't have the skills and patience to even try. Bruce B4408 made a beauty for his CZ 22Vartarg, but he has lots of experience in working with timber, all the gear, and patience to go with it.

It is still quite a task to do the final fitting and finishing on a rifle stock, can take a lot of time and effort, and you will still get a very good sense of accomplishment from the task.

Yeah I had thought that maybe the case and have thought to maybe just try to get my hands on a rough stock(all the machining done) and I just do the final sanding and oil rubbing myself.

But depending on advice gained I may just get a finished aftermarket stock.

I not really a fan of the polymer sps stock I currently have.

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I'd suggest starting with something simple. Buy an old stock and refinish it yourself. There's enough work in that without trying to make a stock from scratch on your first try.

eBay is a good starting point for old stocks but it might be hard to find exactly one that you need. Ask a gunshop if they have any old stocks that may suit, particularly from surrendered rifles for destruction. Of course there's abusedguns and the like...

Of course, buying a stock from the guys listed above would be an excellent start. All the critical inletting etc. would be done for you.

On the same topic, if anyone here were to ever want a chunk of Tasmanian Blackwood, or Macrocarpa, Red Maple, or Cypress (not sure how any of those timbers would affect performance, but they're pretty) we have all of these here in large logs at the moment.

You'd pay freight of course but the timber itself would be gratis.

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i got a hatchers thumb hole for my omark [Tiny] unfinished.
believe me,theres enough work in just doing that.
id suggest starting there.

Keachie wrote:Yeah I had thought that maybe the case and have thought to maybe just try to get my hands on a rough stock(all the machining done) and I just do the final sanding and oil rubbing myself.

But depending on advice gained I may just get a finished aftermarket stock.

I not really a fan of the polymer sps stock I currently have.

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There’s enough work just in the inletting with the proper machines to give me the shits.

If it were me, I’d go the semi finished option.


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I think a semi finished Hatcher’s stock will be your cheapest option and you will still have work to do. Then you can ask about the bedding job how to. When it comes to bedding I never ask how to. I ask how much! A man has to know his limitations


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Well I Will say the complete opposite to everyone else and suggest to make your stock from scratch.

Is it a lot of work? Absolutely.

Do you need all the fancy tools? No.

I made my first stock with belt sander, router, jigsaw and lots of hand sanding. I laminated the timber together to make the blank and then shaped it.

As far as pointers:

- Look at lots of designs / images on the net that you like
- Print them out
- Do rough sketches of what you like by using features of the images you have printed
- look at any stocks you can in the flesh for ideas too
- Draw up the final design you have sketched on graph paper at 1:1 ratio so you can see what it really looks like in actual size (I do top, bottom, side and end views). It also gives you the dimensal aspects of your stock when shaping it
- if laminating timber cut out your timbers then glue them up as a blank
- find the centreline of your blank and mark out the different points to shape the stock too based on the drawings you have done
- go slow and take your time
- enjoy the process and know at the end you did all of the work

For me this is all part of the hobby. You will learn lots in the process and believe it or not you will also go back and do it all again.

I feel pretty confident about most of the process except for the inlet part.

And as Dunderi will tell you I am indeed a very patient man.

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The inlet and barrel channel I did with the router.

Do it first. Square the blank up on the top with the sides and then use your router and adjustable fence to cut the channel with a core box bit, inlet any other areas for mag well etc with straight router bits and change the plunge depth to control how deep you cut.

Once done then shape the rest of the stock.

Dunderi wrote: ↑Sat May 19, 2018 10:41 am On the same topic, if anyone here were to ever want a chunk of Tasmanian Blackwood, or Macrocarpa, Red Maple, or Cypress (not sure how any of those timbers would affect performance, but they're pretty) we have all of these here in large logs at the moment.

You'd pay freight of course but the timber itself would be gratis.

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I have seen a few Target Rifle stocks made from Tasmanian Blackwood.It is a beautiful wood for rifle stocks,as well as for furniture,even if you make yourself a stock,I would recommend that you pick out a good piece of wood and find a top stock make to make one for yourself.
Mike.

Here in lies the problem. It's nice to make a stock yourself but it can cost more doing it than buying something that already exists.
My last stock was a trial by fire of a few ideas. I wanted the butt to be of the MBR style with a winged keel. The fore end at 4 inches wide and offset and very long to reduce the angle of error in recoil. The action was a creation i had made for a specific cartridge i wanted to trial in a light gun. It had no existing footprint that was even close so was cut as a one off. It all worked out great with the stock but the cost was questionable if you tally up materials. Time was my own.
The laminate profiles were drawn up and water jet cut then glued and let stabilize for a month. To glue it i used an I beam press i had previously made up.
The major profile was milled in a day. The grip area etc was carved out with an angle grinder with 80 grit flap discs. Then all sanded down and finished with many layers of the resin used to layer carbon fibre. Then rubbed to a glass like silky satin smooth finish. A lot of work but worth it where it can be easily repaired if needed but mostly because it slides in leather bags like nothing else.
Then when all done the rifle was tested, worked great then sold only to have the new owner wanting to lacquer it to make it all shiny. Well it ain't. Orange peel and sticky on the bags.

The point is, yes it can be done but it is a lot of work profiling and finishing. And it may end up in a stock created that someone other than yourself may wish to own. If what i had ended up with was an off the shelf item, would i have bought it rather than made it? Most likely yes and i reckon it would have been about brake even cost wise and very little time covered in saw dust. For me it falls into one of two distinct outcomes. To either work better or look better. If you cannot meet one of those two, the exercise is pretty pointless as i seriously doubt the end cost will be worthwhile if saving money is the driver.

I use the same technique as Albow.
Do the inletting while you have flat surfaces to work from. Careful measuring from the original stock makes it easy . Router to within a mm and then hand finish, drill bolt holes and fit floor plate. Then use power tools to remove any wood that doesn't look like a rifle stock. next use rasps, files, chisels as required. The hard work is the sanding and finishing.
Next learn to do checkering .
It may not be perfect but it will be your custom self made stock.

Have a go, if it doesn't work burn it on a cold winters night.

Bruce
A few pics here
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21509&start=15

So you can see what a nice piece of Tassie Blackwood can look like.......

This is chosen timber for the Tikka stock. You will have seen the posts before, but the photos definitely show how nice the Tassie Blackwood can be (although Missed did outperform on this one..... !).

Unfortunately I'm still playing with the 25/35, so this bit of timber hasn't been fitted up yet.

Stock by Mr Hatcher, rubbing by Andrew the wood whisperer......

viewtopic.php?f=61&t=23007

viewtopic.php?f=61&t=23917