AusVarmint

ive seen on these front rests [fire control,rock] that they have a really course thread on the hight adjustment. why ?
it seems to me that a finer thread would give a finer adjustment ...

apart from using the rest on dirt,why would the base adjustment/level screws be pointed ?
seems to me it shouldnt be needed on a cement bench..


sean.

ps: it another project.

My guesses until the pro's arrive and tell me I am wrong but I've always assumed.

Pointed feet- harmonics, I believe is the primary answer- exotic speakers do the same. Enhanced grip secondary answer- flat steel slides on concrete, spikes dig in and scratch.

On dirt you'd want a flatter surface- otherwise it'd burry itself with each shot.

Coarse height adjustment- I've wondered the same thing- always assumed scope knobs adjustments to distance- yep that's close enough fir the height- Shot- tweak scope to the correct height- Bingo- right elevation is now set.

Gravity doesn't change so the every shot should be the same height, and lateral needs to quick and precise for the constant wind adjustments during the session.

Tex.

Guys,

Foot screws are fine threaded, you use the rear one for your fine height adjustment. Pointed so they dig into timber or concrete, often the points are replaced with concrete nail tips.
Main vertical adjustment is coarse, as it's only to get you close, then you use the fine rear screw.

Clear as Mud? Just as well you don't have a rear adjustable rest as well.

Jeff

I dont bother with the rear adjustment screw, in fact Ive given my firecontrol a birthday and put a new base on it with the two screws at the back. Joystick rests are much more user friendly, at least for what I shoot.

im in the process of making a rest,for the odd times i may use one off the bench.[for sighting or load testing]

the main shaft i have on hand is a fine threaded bolt.
its long enough to be able to cut the thread off and start again if need be.

the base plate is a good lump of steel plate [a big square]
ive put a bolt in each corner to level it.

im just fishing for ideas on these two points.

still not sure what i will do about the cradle yet.
ive a couple ideas,but the narrow forend of the stock kind of buggers those ideas for a good fit.
especially if i get a new stock with a wider forend.

sean.

My firecontrol tends to want to drop down even when the adjustments are done up tight, any tips on why this is and how to fix it?

dont let go of the stick

LoneRider wrote:dont let go of the stick

I don't think that's it mate, you use the main adjuster (the thing you were talking about) then do the lock knob up and it still wants to drop back down so either something needs adjusting or its worn out and needs some internal bushes replaced?

LoneRider wrote:
the base plate is a good lump of steel plate [a big square]
ive put a bolt in each corner to level it.
sean.

Very hard if not impossible to level four sides, hence why most things that need to be level only have 3 legs/feet

hmmm...oh well.
close will be good enough.

I made up some f-class feet, just an apropriate nut with a large washer epoxy-steel together and with a lock nut set so max depth is 25 mm which is all you are allowed in fclass, means you can jam it in and it won't or budge plus is a nice surface when adjusting it then.