AusVarmint

Does anyone know if you can reproduce colour case hardening effect using chemicals or salts without actually heating and hardening?

Somebody.....................anybody...?

Google says you can but result vary. Cold bluing and special application.

I better google it then, thanks Raven, l found the ingrediants for hot blueing the other day but could not find the mixing rate to volume water etc. Did have a small ref to case hardening. I have a plan for a cheap old shotgun, and l'm thinking of different ways l can dress it up.

Purple, blue and brown textas, taped together and applied in a wiping motion.

kickinback wrote:Purple, blue and brown textas, taped together and applied in a wiping motion.

that actually did make me laugh out loud!

PM Mulga mate he has done it and has all the instructions.

Do a search for OXPHO-BLUE for a blue, I sure I have seen colour case hardening stuff somewhere.

Ryan

I have to make amends for my earlier post. Have a look at this. Not really what you are after but maybe worth a read.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com ... rial-4520/

trevort wrote:

kickinback wrote:Purple, blue and brown textas, taped together and applied in a wiping motion.

that actually did make me laugh out loud!

Me too.

I've done a little genuine case hardening, but not with chemicals.

For my own stuff I actually made my own bone and hardwood charcoal, my own heat treat oven etc and did it the old fashion way.

As you are aware (hence the request for a chemical method) with modern steels you have to give some caution as to the effects of heat on the steel, I've only cased old guns that I know were originally CCH'd.

I think there is a mix of cyanide type chemicals that can produce a similar effect, you see this on Rossi lever guns and browning 1885's etc, but in my opinion it looks pretty ordinary and gaudy. Plus those chemicals are pretty nasty and I have no idea where you would get them.

I pretty much learned all I know from this thread here: http://www.marlin-collectors.com/forum/ ... php?t=3732

Here are a couple of pics of my attempts:

Winchester 62 pump:

Marlin 1897:

How does the Cyprus pine stock on the Marlin hold up, would have thought it may be a little brittle for stock wood ??

It's weird timber actually. Its nice to work with, especially on the lathe as it turns to a highly polished finish straight off the tool. Very little sanding needed.

Its only on a 22lr so no real recoil issues, have no idea how it would hold up on a gun with recoil - probably not great. Regarding stability, it actually hasn't settled too bad with just a couple of very small hair line cracks opening up as the timber dries out. You have to remember it's not like it was racked and dried for 10 years as it was decking timber. It's served it's purpose though, and the initial plan was to get some walnut stocks from Precision Gunworks for it after the barrel got relined recently but unfortunately I'm not happy with the reline job so I've held off spending any more money on it until I decide if the gun shoots satisfactorily or if its a write-off.

I sort of can't be bothered to mess with it at the moment because the work just pisses me off so it hides at the back of the safe. The chamber work is an absolute dogs breakfast and I'll have to live with it, given the 22lr is a straight case I can't even really set the barrel back a turn and rechamber it to get it shooting better. I've managed to get around the split cases and bulged case heads by removing burrs at the chamber mouth that were preventing the case seating flush with the rim recess but the chamber is scored to all f'kery and looser than a 60 yr old hooker. The round just flops around in it. Pity the whole project got f'ked at the last step by the smith.