Trigger creep
- lowndsie
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- Location: Glenbrook NSW
Trigger creep
So I've finally managed to get my vauguard trigger back in a serviceable condition and its adjusted very nicely. The problem is every dozen or so dry fires i get some noticeable creep then it goes back to no creep again. Anyone have any idea what causes intermittent creep?
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- .22 WMR
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 9:15 am
- Location: Wagga Wagga, NSW.
Re: Trigger creep
Dirt,oil,incorrect spring tensions.What is it like when you fire a number of live rounds?
- lowndsie
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- Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 8:10 pm
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- Location: Glenbrook NSW
Re: Trigger creep
Got it thanks mate. Looks like someone played with the spring at one stage and tried to shorten it. I replaced it with a different spring and all is working spot on now.
Re: Trigger creep
I have spoken about this in a number of threads over the years. Most every trigger sear is ground with positive lift {angle} for purposes of litigation, safety and for those with passion fingers to be prevented from creating a self releasing trigger. Negative angle creates the problem of accidental release if the spring tension is too little or if a sharp jarring occurs. What you need to do to remove most all of the creep is to grind the sear to be neutral. That is done by setting and grinding the main trigger sear around its fixture pin so the release surface of the sear now becomes an arc. Such an easy task to remove creep yet so few understand the geometry.
The inconsistencies associated with creep are always to do with these angles, lubrication and spring tension. A trigger should be washed in leaded fuel or lighter fluid, blown dry and left. Nothing more as the lead residue is all the lubricant a trigger needs and it never gums or attracts dust. The ground arc makes the trigger completely neutral and not lifting or dropping force against the drop sear. An oil or grease lubricated trigger changes as the lube ages. The final elements of creep stem from sear hole and retaining pin fit. Worn or loose pins or holes place the sear in a different position every set and alter release pressure and engagement set to set. That is the final part of creep you may not be able to remove without going to the trouble of reaming the holes and using larger diameter pins. Both tasks are a royal pain.
The inconsistencies associated with creep are always to do with these angles, lubrication and spring tension. A trigger should be washed in leaded fuel or lighter fluid, blown dry and left. Nothing more as the lead residue is all the lubricant a trigger needs and it never gums or attracts dust. The ground arc makes the trigger completely neutral and not lifting or dropping force against the drop sear. An oil or grease lubricated trigger changes as the lube ages. The final elements of creep stem from sear hole and retaining pin fit. Worn or loose pins or holes place the sear in a different position every set and alter release pressure and engagement set to set. That is the final part of creep you may not be able to remove without going to the trouble of reaming the holes and using larger diameter pins. Both tasks are a royal pain.
- lowndsie
- Moderator
- Posts: 871
- Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 8:10 pm
- Favourite Cartridge: N/A
- Location: Glenbrook NSW
Re: Trigger creep
Thanks Tony. It's all good now. Very consistent and breaks at 1.1kg. No detectable creep, no slam fires and no bump fires. Safety works well.
I think someone has tried to shorten the spring in the past (not sure how many owners its had) but a new spring and re-adjustment has fixed all issues.
I think someone has tried to shorten the spring in the past (not sure how many owners its had) but a new spring and re-adjustment has fixed all issues.