AusVarmint

I've been reading up on the pro's and con's of neck vs full length sizing and haven't been able to find an clear answer.

Well, the answer I did find was that the full blown competition types do FLS using dies perfectly matched to their chamber. Yep, I can understand that for competition as you're chasing very last bit of accuracy. But what about for normal shooters like me?

I don't compete, don't do special calibres, and don't have a custom rifle, but do want to make decent loads that shoot as well as you could reasonably expect.

I'd be interested in the thought of our reloaders here? NS or FLS, and what about NS with the occasional FLS?

How do you spot when the neck needs pushing back? Is it as simply as noting chambering issues?

If I have a neck die for what Im loading I neck size until I start to note chambering issues then FLS. If I don't have a neck die then they get FLS every reload.

I'm with 220 I do mainly neck size. When the brass gets too long I trim and full length.

Hunting cartridges get full length sized every time, much prefer reliable feeding and extraction that any perceived small gain in accuracy, varmint rounds get neck sized when they start getting a bit tight I haven't had to full length size my 20/222 brass yet they have around a dozen firings on them.

A mixed bag depending on the chambering (or more accurately, depending on the dies I have for each chambering).

For the .222, .223, .22-250 and .243 I have a couple of Super Simplex presses with the dies permanently set up - these dies only neck size. After a few loadings you can feel the cases becoming a bit tight to chamber and once extracted these ones are put aside to be FLS.

For the .20-222, .308 and my brother's .204 and .30-06 I only have FLS dies so that's what I have used.

I picked up some dies from Seddo a while back which includes some neck dies but haven't used them yet.

Marcus

Bushing neck dies with tight chamber and turned necks. Not likely to make a whole heap of difference in a factory rifle. Best thing about bushing dies is no lube.

The fl die comp shooters use sizes the neck with a bushing, not a button and is set to size the body about a thou. It is far from a normal fl die. Just got one. Not looking forward to setting it up.



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Love using Lee Collet neck dies for my swede, even used them on the AI with no dramas. Used them with my 308 omark when I had it too. Doesn't over work the brass and push the brass around as the neck is more squeezed than anything.

Will be interesting to see how it goes in my 222 rimmed martini as I usually fls for extraction but the neck size may work or not.

Raven I Neck size up until the cartridge starts to get hard to extract or chamber.This will greatly depend on how hot your loads are.If you are loading to pressure then you will need to FLS more often than if you are loading mild.
Set up your Full length die to suit your chamber this is the hard bit and the best explanation I have found is the instructions supplied with Forster full length dies.Most instructions tell you to screw the die down to contact the shell holder then go another 1/2, 3/4 of a turn.Forsters way is to turn the die down until you can chamber a round.You will have bumped the shoulder and sized the case to suit your chamber which may or may not be to specs.

I used neck size, then Fl size as required.

I read an article - cannot remember by who a few years back. It basically convinced me that FL was the best way to go and the logic it used to explain it i felt was sound - i don't remember all of it, but one thing that stuck with me was that the article focused on reloading the same ammo each and every time, if you neck size only the case is actually getting larger each firing and isn't actually the same - with a FL sizing (standard or type s FL bushing dies) die the ammo is the same each and every firing. But as mentioned previously by others I do not size all the way, only enough to get it to chamber properly/easily which is approx 1 thou (you can do this by feel with the bolt or bushings and measure).

The only other thing i do different with my target rounds is i anneal every firing also - this way i can ensure if i do my part every round is the same. At least i believe so.

FL size every time but as above back the the die off a (measured) few thou to provide a snickle of resistance on closing the bolt. Also after backing the die off I put a washer on the shell holder to square the die up before tightening the lock ring.

I like and agree with the opinion that this method produces a consistent case.

Guys,

Be careful FL sizing every time, as eventually you will wind up with curved brass. Don't laugh, I have done it. This is caused by inconsistency in the case wall thickness, with the thin side stretching and springing more in the die. I had about 5thou or more in .270 cases after about 20 reloads, in a match chamber.
My procedure now is to take the fired case, anneal, neck size, clean the primer pocket, then run every case through the action again. Only cases that are too tight get any attention from a bump or body die. This way I know every case will go back in the gun, without excess tightness, or clearance. It's a bit of a long process, but then I only shoot paper a long way away.

Jeff

Jeff that is quite true. Years ago when i did a 284 Fly rifle i used Lap brass that was terribly eccentric in the side walls. After a few firings and sizings the brass went banana and there was nothing you could do about it. Without a case concentricity gauge and internal measuring gauge you would never know but i did start to question chamber alignment because it got so bad that cases were being scraped on the leaning sides as they were being chambered. Went back to win cases and the problem was solved. This is the exact reason Eric dumped his 284 and went to 7 JAT. That early brown box 6.5/284 was real junk.

I FL size almost all of my rounds, generally with Redding Type S dies so i can pick the neck tension.

Hi guys,

I really appreciate all the advice and intentionally didn't respond until there was lots of feedback to consider! Interesting to see all the various techniques. It sounds like NS is fine until you notice chambering/ejecting issues, then it's time to FLS.

NS using Lee dies is working fine on the .223, noting some brass is on their 5th trip. However, as soon as I note anything I'll do FLS.

Now looking at 270win I have a Hornady two die set, so I guess FLS is the answer I'm not playing with 270 loads yet, need to make more empty brass first.