AusVarmint

Just wondering how people go about annealing brass? After watching multitudes of YouTube vids and reading I'm still confused.

Why do I want to anneal the cases? It's mainly for the 8mm RM which is getting increasingly harder to get brass for. Thought that it might prolong the life of the cases a bit longer. Also want to use it to rejuvenate some .243 brass that have had a lot of reloads through them.

My thought was to rotate a case with my fingers in a flame and time how long it takes to get too hot to handle. Drop it in water. Then I would do the remainder of the cases with a cordless drill and socket for the time above.

Any help appreciated.

Regards,

CZ550

Here is a thread I put up some time ago, bit rough, but it works.

viewtopic.php?f=61&t=17387

Thanks Camel - did see this post a while ago, but obviously annealing wasn't in my thoughts at the time!

Good write up, will give that a crack and see how we go.

Regards,

CZ550

No worries bloke, I had read a heap about it before, but never gave it much of a go except one time years ago I had a Hornet turned into a K version and wanted to use the old brass I had, didn't do it like the way I did it for the 30-06 brass, I think then I stood them in a tray of water and tipped them over when I thought they were cooked. Don't know if I did it right, but the brass went on to last for a good few years afterwards. This way is shit loads easier, and Im pretty sure its working as I didn't have any problems when I necked them up.

Well I need to listen to my own advice.
I formed up these 17 Mach1V cases from twice fired 222 federal brass.I had annealed them them at the start but not after forming.They survived the first firing but not the second

Bugger

Camel wrote:Here is a thread I put up some time ago, bit rough, but it works.

viewtopic.php?f=61&t=17387

I had success using the same technique on my 308W Lapua military brass. A couple of changes

1. Used MAPP gas kit instead of propane, as it's what I had available.
2. Did it the dark instead to catch the glow ASAP.
3. Tipped the case straight into a bucket of water, just to guarantee no annealing of the case head.
4. Every 10 or 20 I'd drain off the water and leave the cases to soak in solvent (acetone or metho) for another 5mins to get a head start on carbon deposits inside the case.
5. Then tossed them in vibratory cleaner with walnut media to dry the cases completely, before resizing/depriming with the typical single die the following day.

It's slow, but a regular candle can be used to anneal. Hold the case (8mmRemMag) about half way down the body and rotate the neck in the flame. When too hot to handle, into a wet towel to wipe the soot off the neck.
Cheers...
Con

get yourself a couple of temp sensitive crayons and mark the first few you do so you know how long they need in the flame. Around 800°C at the neck is what you need for around 7-8 seconds.

Just a question wardy91
Where would one buy these temp sensitive crayons from.
Any suggestions?

Teepee wrote:Just a question wardy91
Where would one buy these temp sensitive crayons from.
Any suggestions?

Engineering or bearing supply places.
Only annealing ive done was the lead dip method.
Dip the neck shoulder into molten lead until it doesn't stick and your brass should be close to the same temp as the lead.
Have a PID on my electric pot so can control temp +/- 1-2 degrees.

Yeah as 220 said blackwoods or a industrial supply place.

When I did the brass for my 20/222, I had it in the flame for the count of 6, annealing line showed approx. 20mm from case mouth, close to the same as factory Lapua brass, when I did the 30/06 brass I did a count of 8, same deal with the annealing line. Once you take them out of the flame, the annealing process stops within a second or so, I just lay them on the concrete floor of the reloading room as a heat sink. dunno about the temp, but it seemed to have worked as I have had no problems so far.

I do mine like Aaronraad,I started to make an annealing type machine but havent got back to it,all I can say is be carefull cause its not hard to go from not quiet enough to to much heat.I know multiple people have said they do it and I dont doubt them at all but I have seen two cases fail in my time and it was due to over heating cases when annealing,be carefull.

chris.tyne wrote:I do mine like Aaronraad,I started to make an annealing type machine but havent got back to it,all I can say is be carefull cause its not hard to go from not quiet enough to to much heat.I know multiple people have said they do it and I dont doubt them at all but I have seen two cases fail in my time and it was due to over heating cases when annealing,be carefull.

Ken Howell has been wildcatting for a while http://www.24hourcampfire.com/annealing.html.

Just be aware also that not all brass is the same and the ratio or copper to zinc can affect the annealing process if you look at the phase diagram for the alloy. See the different alloy ratios based on some samples from different manufacturers a few years ago by accurateshooter.com http://www.accurateshooter.com/technica ... dge-brass/

Something different like a gumball machine or cigarette loading machine I guess http://www.accurateshooter.com/gear-rev ... -annealer/.

Another great technical article http://www.accurateshooter.com/technica ... annealing/