Sourcing factory brass for reloads. Which is best?

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The Raven
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Re: Sourcing factory brass for reloads. Which is best?

Post by The Raven »

Plowboy wrote:Blokes on the states reckon it is very soft, primer pockets are loose and inconsistent. So never bothered with it. Before my reloading days, I bought American eagle factory stuff(bloody good in my rifle) and most of it was stamped LC(lake city) and by most reports that is ok to use. I never had a problem.

I remove primer pockets with a case mouth chamfer tool( I think it's an RCBS). I try to take as little as possible so not to make the primer pocket loose.

This Winchester stuff is not crimped though. Still bloody loose!
Thanks for that.

Yeah, blokes in the states (or on the internet) who 'reckon things' are very easy to come by. Of course, we're exempt from that category :wink:

Yes, I heard the brass is soft but how soft is 'soft'.

Your comment on de-crimping probably goes a long way to explaining most loose primer pockets. I've seen numerous internet videos showing wildly varying techniques...with wildly varying amounts of material removed.

More info to consider.
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Re: Sourcing factory brass for reloads. Which is best?

Post by Plowboy »

The Raven wrote:
Plowboy wrote:Blokes on the states reckon it is very soft, primer pockets are loose and inconsistent. So never bothered with it. Before my reloading days, I bought American eagle factory stuff(bloody good in my rifle) and most of it was stamped LC(lake city) and by most reports that is ok to use. I never had a problem.

I remove primer pockets with a case mouth chamfer tool( I think it's an RCBS). I try to take as little as possible so not to make the primer pocket loose.

This Winchester stuff is not crimped though. Still bloody loose!
Thanks for that.

Yeah, blokes in the states (or on the internet) who 'reckon things' are very easy to come by. Of course, we're exempt from that category :wink:

Yes, I heard the brass is soft but how soft is 'soft'.

Your comment on de-crimping probably goes a long way to explaining most loose primer pockets. I've seen numerous internet videos showing wildly varying techniques...with wildly varying amounts of material removed.

More info to consider.
Yeah true. But I reckon my de crimping is more consistent than some Winchester brass! Should have looked into a swage but yeah I was hoping to move away from crimped pockets.
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The Raven
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Re: Sourcing factory brass for reloads. Which is best?

Post by The Raven »

Plowboy wrote:
The Raven wrote:
Plowboy wrote:Blokes on the states reckon it is very soft, primer pockets are loose and inconsistent. So never bothered with it. Before my reloading days, I bought American eagle factory stuff(bloody good in my rifle) and most of it was stamped LC(lake city) and by most reports that is ok to use. I never had a problem.

I remove primer pockets with a case mouth chamfer tool( I think it's an RCBS). I try to take as little as possible so not to make the primer pocket loose.

This Winchester stuff is not crimped though. Still bloody loose!
Thanks for that.

Yeah, blokes in the states (or on the internet) who 'reckon things' are very easy to come by. Of course, we're exempt from that category :wink:

Yes, I heard the brass is soft but how soft is 'soft'.

Your comment on de-crimping probably goes a long way to explaining most loose primer pockets. I've seen numerous internet videos showing wildly varying techniques...with wildly varying amounts of material removed.

More info to consider.
Yeah true. But I reckon my de crimping is more consistent than some Winchester brass! Should have looked into a swage but yeah I was hoping to move away from crimped pockets.
How does swaging change the outcome for the primer pockets? Serious question, gotta learn somehow.
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Re: Sourcing factory brass for reloads. Which is best?

Post by kickinback »

The Raven wrote:
Plowboy wrote:
The Raven wrote:
Plowboy wrote:Blokes on the states reckon it is very soft, primer pockets are loose and inconsistent. So never bothered with it. Before my reloading days, I bought American eagle factory stuff(bloody good in my rifle) and most of it was stamped LC(lake city) and by most reports that is ok to use. I never had a problem.

I remove primer pockets with a case mouth chamfer tool( I think it's an RCBS). I try to take as little as possible so not to make the primer pocket loose.

This Winchester stuff is not crimped though. Still bloody loose!
Thanks for that.

Yeah, blokes in the states (or on the internet) who 'reckon things' are very easy to come by. Of course, we're exempt from that category :wink:

Yes, I heard the brass is soft but how soft is 'soft'.

Your comment on de-crimping probably goes a long way to explaining most loose primer pockets. I've seen numerous internet videos showing wildly varying techniques...with wildly varying amounts of material removed.

More info to consider.
Yeah true. But I reckon my de crimping is more consistent than some Winchester brass! Should have looked into a swage but yeah I was hoping to move away from crimped pockets.
How does swaging change the outcome for the primer pockets? Serious question, gotta learn somehow.
I think it was just Jeff who had a die made for tightening primer pockets.
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Re: Sourcing factory brass for reloads. Which is best?

Post by Plowboy »

You can buy a primer pocket swage that takes the crimp out of the pocket without cutting brass. It is also uniformed so everything should be the same as non crimped brass. However these things cost from $70 upwards.
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Re: Sourcing factory brass for reloads. Which is best?

Post by The Raven »

Plowboy wrote:You can buy a primer pocket swage that takes the crimp out of the pocket without cutting brass. It is also uniformed so everything should be the same as non crimped brass. However these things cost from $70 upwards.
Just did some research on what's available.

Geez, didn't know it had been already covered on huntandshoot (Thanks Jason & Keith)

http://huntandshoot.com.au/articles/rcb ... et-swager/
http://huntandshoot.com.au/articles/hun ... r-pockets/

Dillon and RCBS bench mounted units look well designed. The press mounted units seem more troublesome to use (youtube).
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Re: Sourcing factory brass for reloads. Which is best?

Post by Plowboy »

I have looked at YouTube clips of the Dillon one and it looks really good but after what Trev said about his brass lasting as long as it has, I reckon to justify all of that cost in getting set up, you would want to be shooting a hell of a lot of volume. Either that or maybe a few people share in its purchase and once finished, pass on to the next person.

Or just do what I have been doing and throw out the loose ones.
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Re: Sourcing factory brass for reloads. Which is best?

Post by The Raven »

Plowboy wrote:I have looked at YouTube clips of the Dillon one and it looks really good but after what Trev said about his brass lasting as long as it has, I reckon to justify all of that cost in getting set up, you would want to be shooting a hell of a lot of volume. Either that or maybe a few people share in its purchase and once finished, pass on to the next person.

Or just do what I have been doing and throw out the loose ones.
I'm starting to wonder at what point the cost effectiveness cuts in. Clearly, I don't shoot a heap of rounds to get to some magic cost savings and I'm not chasing any Gold medals. Still, most people don't reload purely on cost...it's just part of the sport.

The Dillon did look good, and I figure the cost would be recouped within a few hundred cases (as opposed to buying new brass).
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Re: Sourcing factory brass for reloads. Which is best?

Post by trevort »

Raven dont go making this more complicated than it needs to be. You only need to worry about swaging if you use brass (mostly military) that has the primer CRIMPED in. You have to remove this crimp before you can put a new primer in.

Factory brass is not crimped on sporting ammo. I have never seen a crimped in primer
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Re: Sourcing factory brass for reloads. Which is best?

Post by Plowboy »

Yep Trev is right. That's why I went to Winchester for a start, no crimped in primers. You only have to taken them out the first time and so a tool like the Dillion is a bit full on if only used on a couple of hundred cases and then never used again.

What's PPU stuff like?
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