May be time for a new gun safe

[The Raven]

Went to open one of my safes today (digital) and discovered it wouldn't unlock normally. Luckily I could open it with the key.

Checked the batteries, reset the codes etc. etc. Looks like something is fried in the electronics. It's an older safe and pretty cheesy, although compliant to local requirements. So, I figure it may be time to get a better safe.

Still lockable etc, along with extra security, but a pain I can't open it via the keypad etc.

[Camel]

Like all those electronic gizmos, they will all fuck up when you don't want them to, or are in a hurry.

[Rabbitz]

I have spent a bit of time playing with such gizmo's during a previous life.

They really aren't that hard to replace. The keypad generally drives a single small solenoid, so any keypad with the correct voltage output can drive the solenoid.

What generally happens on many of the keypads is the output transistor packs it in as it is being used to drive the solenoid directly to save the cost of having an output relay.

A simple check is to put a voltmeter across the wires leading to the solenoid and operate the keypad - if you see no voltage going to the solenoid then the keypad is likely fried. If the voltage appears and solenoid doesn't operate then the solenoid is the likely culprit.

A further check is if the keypad actually does have an output relay, see if you can establish if it is operating when you send the unlock signal - it's contacts may be shot and if you have a soldering iron etc then it may be replaceable.

[The Raven]

I have spent a bit of time playing with such gizmo's during a previous life.

They really aren't that hard to replace. The keypad generally drives a single small solenoid, so any keypad with the correct voltage output can drive the solenoid.

What generally happens on many of the keypads is the output transistor packs it in as it is being used to drive the solenoid directly to save the cost of having an output relay.

A simple check is to put a voltmeter across the wires leading to the solenoid and operate the keypad - if you see no voltage going to the solenoid then the keypad is likely fried. If the voltage appears and solenoid doesn't operate then the solenoid is the likely culprit.

A further check is if the keypad actually does have an output relay, see if you can establish if it is operating when you send the unlock signal - it's contacts may be shot and if you have a soldering iron etc then it may be replaceable.

Thanks for the info. Yes, no solenoid action.

I did try to remove the rear steel liner of the safe door and while the various hardware can be removed it looks like the door has to be off the safe to get the inner liner off.

Was thinking about replacing the entire electronic gizmo, noting some similar safes thrown out during the last hard rubbish collection, but thought it may be better to invest in a better safe like another I own. No cheap ass locking mechanism just a good key lock.

If bored one day I'll tinker with the locking mech but will meanwhile research a better safe.