I have aquired a pair of 30mm Burris Zee rings. These have nylon self aligning inserts of various dimensions. This allows a scope to be elevated for long range shooting.
Just wondering if anyone is using this setup. I shoot alot of F Class and am going to try a rifle with these instead of a tapered rail.
Just curious,
Cameron
Burris Zee Rings
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singleshot
- .17 HMR
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- Location: Darling Downs SE Qld
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dg
- 25/06 Remington
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- Favourite Cartridge: 6x47 lapua
- Location: narromine
cameron
have been using these mounts for many years and consider the design and application to be superb.
in my experience, providing due care is taken, they ( with scope attached) can be removed and replaced on my rifles without any noticeable change in the zero point.
naturally, this includes allowance for my errors and the grouping ability of the gun.
i have used this procedure on my fly and 1000 yd light gun for many years. ie B&L 36x scope for fly and a 20x premier for 1000yds ( 1 inch burris rings). same for my heavy gun over last 2 years approx. (using 30mm burris rings.)
however, i have found the fitting and alignment of the rings and scope to be very time consuming and fiddly, but well worth the effort, once set up.
cheers
dave goodridge
have been using these mounts for many years and consider the design and application to be superb.
in my experience, providing due care is taken, they ( with scope attached) can be removed and replaced on my rifles without any noticeable change in the zero point.
naturally, this includes allowance for my errors and the grouping ability of the gun.
i have used this procedure on my fly and 1000 yd light gun for many years. ie B&L 36x scope for fly and a 20x premier for 1000yds ( 1 inch burris rings). same for my heavy gun over last 2 years approx. (using 30mm burris rings.)
however, i have found the fitting and alignment of the rings and scope to be very time consuming and fiddly, but well worth the effort, once set up.
cheers
dave goodridge
-
singleshot
- .17 HMR
- Posts: 231
- Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2006 8:45 pm
- Location: Darling Downs SE Qld
-
dg
- 25/06 Remington
- Posts: 834
- Joined: Thu Oct 12, 2006 10:48 am
- Favourite Cartridge: 6x47 lapua
- Location: narromine
cameron
in case it is of interest or relevant, i forgot to mention that i use 20moa bases on my benchrest and f class set ups with the burris insert rings.
originally i used the flat bases, but decided, that in some cases the scope was getting too much elevation work, which in my opinion may cause unnecessary wear and tear on the internals and this in time, effects the chances of repeatable return to zero.
in respect of the fly and 1000 yard rifles, care was taken to pre-centre the scopes, and then use the plastic ring insert combinations to as near as possible, give the required elevation setting required. ballistic charts, boresighting, a few sighter shots and a bit of luck have ensured that in both cases the rifles are zeroed for either 500m or 1000yds with minimal movement of the scope adjustments from their respective internal centred position.
for the f class rifle, once again ,it is optically centred ( using v blocks) and then reference to a ballistic chart, is used to determine the supposed mid point elevation setting required.
e.g as a rough example in trying to sight in, for ranges from 300m to 600m, i have found that zeroing the scope and ring settings for 500m results in approx equal scope adj to go from 500m to 300m as it does to go from 500m to 600m. ( note this is with my small 7mm - other calibre combinations will require settings to precisely suit their trajectories)
hope this makes some sense!!!
also, you are correct in that, the latest 30mm insert burris rings have 2 screws per side instead of 1 per side as in the originals.
this does give greater clamping power, but in my opinion ,have found extra care is needed when fitting or aligning, to ensure equal distribution of clamping forces on the plastic inserts and scope body.
i also use small plastic spacers, (old credit cards are good for this) to try and ensure that the gap is controlled and equalised on each side of the plastic inserts to avoid them touching, when the screws are tightened on the rings.
i also apply a small amount of oil or lube to the scope body, inserts and rings, which seems to assist in aligning and making easier adjustments during the fitting operation. although it is hard to judge, i also apply gently firm but not overly tight force to the screws, as i have seen burris insert mounts in which excess force has broken the ring and snapped off the screws.
cheers again
dave g
in case it is of interest or relevant, i forgot to mention that i use 20moa bases on my benchrest and f class set ups with the burris insert rings.
originally i used the flat bases, but decided, that in some cases the scope was getting too much elevation work, which in my opinion may cause unnecessary wear and tear on the internals and this in time, effects the chances of repeatable return to zero.
in respect of the fly and 1000 yard rifles, care was taken to pre-centre the scopes, and then use the plastic ring insert combinations to as near as possible, give the required elevation setting required. ballistic charts, boresighting, a few sighter shots and a bit of luck have ensured that in both cases the rifles are zeroed for either 500m or 1000yds with minimal movement of the scope adjustments from their respective internal centred position.
for the f class rifle, once again ,it is optically centred ( using v blocks) and then reference to a ballistic chart, is used to determine the supposed mid point elevation setting required.
e.g as a rough example in trying to sight in, for ranges from 300m to 600m, i have found that zeroing the scope and ring settings for 500m results in approx equal scope adj to go from 500m to 300m as it does to go from 500m to 600m. ( note this is with my small 7mm - other calibre combinations will require settings to precisely suit their trajectories)
hope this makes some sense!!!
also, you are correct in that, the latest 30mm insert burris rings have 2 screws per side instead of 1 per side as in the originals.
this does give greater clamping power, but in my opinion ,have found extra care is needed when fitting or aligning, to ensure equal distribution of clamping forces on the plastic inserts and scope body.
i also use small plastic spacers, (old credit cards are good for this) to try and ensure that the gap is controlled and equalised on each side of the plastic inserts to avoid them touching, when the screws are tightened on the rings.
i also apply a small amount of oil or lube to the scope body, inserts and rings, which seems to assist in aligning and making easier adjustments during the fitting operation. although it is hard to judge, i also apply gently firm but not overly tight force to the screws, as i have seen burris insert mounts in which excess force has broken the ring and snapped off the screws.
cheers again
dave g