AusVarmint

G"day All
Does anyone know if I can just wind up the elevation on a T36 for 200mtr rimfire shoots or do I need to shim the rear mount.?
Any thoughts .??
Regards
Damien webb.

Can't really say mate - don't know how the scope is set up on the rifle (how much elevation you are already using at your sighted distance).

You would need to find out how many moa adjustment you have left and then look at the bullet drop for the ammo you are using.

Easiest way would be just to take the rifle to the range and crank her up and see if you can get on at 200.

Am sure some of the benchrest guys will chip in with good info, but I can't see it would be a problem.

As HiWall says it really depends on the mounts and how you have set up initially. Try it at the range thats the only way to really tell.

I have a Weaver 36T on the M54 and it works just fine.

cheers
Rinso

G'Day
Rinso-Do you have your scope shimmed or just use the elevation alone.??
I too have it mounted on a annie 54.
It is mounted with about 10mm gap from the barrel profile.
I am using SK match.
Regards
Damien webb.

native,

I don't have shims on any rifle unless there is no other way, I just don't like them. I try to avoid adding extra bits, its just one more thing that can go wrong.

I have British Sportsmatch mounts and rings and from memory they are a high profile, which gives about a 15 mm clearance on the front bell. That said I don't like having just enough adjustment I like to have plenty at the target.

The only way to check is to try it and see how you go. If you have to shim do so under the rear base.

cheers
Rinso

The ONLY way is to check your rifle, an identical set up on someone elses gun could give a very different result, from memory I think you need about 16 minutes elevation to get from 100 to 200 yds, and you need about 5 1/2 minutes from 50 to 100 yds, varies of course with the velocity of the ammo you are using.
If you already have a 100 yd zero, put the rifle on a solid rest and see if you have at least 16 minutes elevaton by watching the crosshairs moving as you adjust the scope as with many scopes the knob keeps turning after the crosshairs have stoped moving.
Shiming is a tempory solution which will tell you how much taper is needed to do what you want, should you not get enough elevation as the rings are. Once you know what taper you need the rings can then be machined and lapped for a proper premanent set up.

Native,if you can get it hitting around 20 inches high at 50mtr you should be good to go.

NH,
Mate the 36 weaver will get you to 200m with most subsonic ammo with parrellel mounts, just.

Basicly with most sub style target ammo you will end up around 10-15 clicks from the end of the travel. Some ammo may be too low and you will run out.

You dont want to be right on the end of your adjustment due to inconsistancy from the scope at this point so always be 5-6 clicks or so back into its travel and pick a round that shoots well at that point or higher.

I have found the latest supply of Fiocchi ammo, in particular 'super match' will shoot flatter than many other target rounds allowing you to be approx 20 clicks or so from the end of your travel.

In most of the rifles i have tested it in lately it has worked very well at 200m, in fact better than many other similar ammos at that range. I am not saying it will shoot the best in yours too but it would be well worth the try.

At the Batemans Bay fly shoot there was 6 guys there that i counted using super match and all six were spread around in the top 12.
cheers,
Shane

Just a little in addition to Shanes good advice. If you are going to the end of the elevation reticle travel it is pretty much essential to have your windage centred in the range of available adjustments and adjust windage with your mounts if possible. The more windage you have wound on your scope adjustments, the less elevation travel you will have available and you are much more likely to pick up any distortion in the glass.