AIR RIFLE ZERO

[HAIR BEAR]

G'day all
what is a good zero point for a air rifle , (springer) or more what distance zero would give me the least hold over/under?

thanks

[astro]

HB: the best advice i can offer is to zero in at your regular shooting distance and then identify your hold undrr/over for further or closer

also look here there may be something of use

http://www.arld1.com/

for my r7 i zeroed in at 15m and the POI doesn't really change until i go out to about 25 metres then i need to adjust by shooting a little higher
but i am still learning and using open sights. once i get the 97 with scope then i will go for 25 - 30 zero depending on how i set my ft range

but there are other methods like zero at point blank etc b ut i haven't gone into that since my current system is working out well

cheers

[HAIR BEAR]

G'day astro
was thinking of just zeroing in at 25 m , like you it is open site ,and work out the rest to say 50 m max , with taughts of scoping latter , or will get a pcp with scope

[makrand]

This Guy: http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/ recommends zeroing at 20 meters because you then have the flattest part of the trajectory out to about 40 meters (on the R9 .20).
He has several articles about zeroing in the archives.

[Yrrah]

One way that some favour is to find the range at which the pellet touches the line of sight just once. It is often in the 20 to 27 yard range ( with scopes ) so that is a good place to start checking.

When you have found that particular range you then know that at all other ranges, closer and further away, the sight must be raised or holdover used. Then you can experiment with sight adjustments, holdover, or mildots if they are in your reticule. You will always then have two ranges at which each sight setting is appropriate eg maybe 10 yards and 50 or 15 and 40 etc ( these are just figures with no articular reference to your rifle ).

Others have given you other ways. It becomes a personal preference thing....... Kind Regards, Harry.

[Yrrah]

Hair Bear the penny just dropped that you have an open sight.

To avoid the old method of taking a "fine", or "normal, or "coarse" bead at various ranges ; or of hold OVER which is a pain because your real target is often obscured; try sighting in at pretty much the longest range you will shoot, say 50 yards and then determine your hold UNDER for the closer ranges.

Hold UNDER will be greatest at about mid range, around 32 yards or so. As you get closer to your zero of 50 yd, hold under will get less. The same will happen as you come back from mid range until at something around ten yards or so you will be back on Zero ... That is good too as if ever you need a finishing shot on a bunny you can aim at what you want to hit at say ten yards ......

Figures here are a rough approximation but you will soon get the idea, and aiming UNDER is so much better because you can see what you are aiming at. ............ Kind regards, Harry.

[Drew Jaeger]

G'day astro
was thinking of just zeroing in at 25 m , like you it is open site ,and work out the rest to say 50 m max , with taughts of scoping latter , or will get a pcp with scope

25m is spot on. That is the distance my HW97K is zeroed at with FTS pellets. The drops at 50m is ~2.5-3". The irony is I seem to shoot Indian Mynahs at 12-16m!!!

[HAIR BEAR]

G'day Yrrah
how are you ? mate that is so good info , will be puting a scope on the R9 as with glasses i can not get a clear sight of the target out past 10 metres, would like to keep open sight , but would limit the hunting side of things , plus age catches us all , not 15any more
was speaking to another gentlman , a few weeeks ago that reccomened a 18 metre zero , then check all the various ranges and will find the hold over/under out to say 40 yards would be minimal , so will try that once the mounts come ,
how did you find trip up north , is it not magic the nights out in the desert plains stars from one horizon to the other , and sooo many ,