Pierce 260 Improved Barrel Blocked Rifle

[Brad Y]

Photos of complete rifle. Just waiting on permit- should be about 4 weeks away, but could be up to 9 by reports.

Full specs
Pierce left hand short action single shot in 308 boltface
Rifle basix trigger set around 400gr
Pierce 20MOA rail
Redback Engineering Barrel Block
Maddco 1:8 twist 6.5mm barrel 1.25" straight
Sightron 8-32x56 target dot 1/8 clicks in Millet extra high rings (needed to get over the barrel block
Vertically adjustable butt plate
Custom stock finished in metallic navy and aus flag airbrushed - some more pimping stickers to come. Polished ally tracking rails on fore end to keep it slippery.
Chambered in 260 remington with 30 degree improved shoulder (same as 6BR and 6.5x47L)

[macca]

Looks the goods.
Nice stock.
I am sure it will shoot well.
Good choice the 260 standard or improved.
Was the most popular chambering in my club when F open kicked off.
Best of luck with it.
cheers

[doidge5781]

Great looking rifle, just a question from a target shooting newbie why the .260 over .308/.284. Just curios as im thinking of starting fclass soon and wanted to know why there is so varied calibres in open class ?

[Brad Y]

It varies because thats what it is- open class. Any cal up to 8mm. The 284's are popular and seem to be doing the majority of the winning- both the standard or the shehane improved versions. There are 7mm SAUM, WSM's etc as well which give a bit more horsepower, but honestly the guys who drive them the straightest seem to be using 284. There are also 6 and 6.5mm's which offer a bit more benefit as a low recoil short to mid range rifle ie 6BR/BRX/Dasher for 300-500m 6.5x47L for 500-700m and 284W for 900m or when ever it gets real ugly. Last thing you want to do is shoot a 284 all the way through a major prize shoot or queens if you dont have to. Might as well use another less recoiling cal.

I chose 6.5mm as the best trade off between the lot. 6.5x284's do the job fine but they go through barrels fairly quick. Hopefully this chamber wont be as bad for similar performance but that remains to be seen. I have plans for a 6BRX and 284 barrels further down the pipeline.

If you want to start into it, shooting F class standard isnt a bad idea. 308's are very accurate out to 900m but they dont have the ballistic performance of open guns. You can use that in your favour. If you shoot a 308 for a while and can drive it well in all sorts of conditions then you will be pretty competitive if you decide to take on open class shooting.

[Plowboy]

Nice rig there brad! Just wondering what you see is the benefit of a block rather than the usual mounting method? Wondering that because of the extra high mounts you have to use to clear the block. I suppose it doesn't matter because you are shooting long range but I try to have my scope as close to the barrel as possible to help shooting at all different ranges.

[Brad Y]

That barrel by itself is bloody heavy. I know theres lots of people who have done it, but I didnt want to risk any stress on the action by holding such a barrel up. Especially since the end that screws into the action is the same size as a remington barrel. I would have gone a barnard action for something like that where the barrel threads are longer and can support more weight.

Also, I dont have to worry about any bedding issues- the action is totally free floating. Scope height not an issue. Shoot known ranges 300-1000yds and plenty of elevation in the sightron scope with the 20MOA rail.

[Plowboy]

Oh ok cool yeah I suppose a bloody heavy barrel hanging off the end of an action probably doesn't do the threads any favours..... Was just wondering why more rifles are not built that way. If the block was thinner and maybe the scope mounted on the block it could be a good way of doing things for a varmint rifle.

[Brad Y]

Some people do make up rails that get fixed onto the block. The previous rings would have worked if I machined about 2mm off the top of the block- wasnt going to do that as it would remove the anodizing.

Im not sure if it puts pressure on the actual threads- more so the entire threaded area. Put it this way, pick up your rifle with thumb and index finger at the butt, try to hold it horizontal and see what happens. Then grab it by the whole hand under the action and do the same. Puts it into perspective a bit more though exaggerated a little