New trigger for model 70 Win

[crowbuster]

Hello all,

I have a Winchester Coyote (stainless barrel) in 22/250 and i had a smith do some mods such as lighten the trigger, bed the action etc a few years ago. Anyway I think he got a bit carried away with the trigger job & with a bit of wear on the sear it became bloody dangerous, so I am looking for a replacement trigger that I can fit myself.
I looked in the Sinclair cattledog & they have some nice drop in triggers for sale such as Jewel Triggers, but on their website it states they are not for export from the US.

Does anyone have any suggestions on where I can purchase a decent trigger for a model 70 action? I would prefer from the US as much better value atm as long as those customs pricks don't feel the need to seize it.

Any advice appreciated.

thanks
crowbuster

[dave]

rifle basix, have one on my winchester stealth II 243wssm and its works a treat plus you can ask them to set the weight within there tolerances.

[doidge5781]

Pro cal trading have timney if not contact hinterland shooting supplies they may be able to get one for you they get a shipment regulary from the states and are good to deal with plus a sponsor of AHN

[MISSED]

Quite possibly the lock nuts have worked loose allowing the weight to come of the sear.The win model 70 would have to be the easiest trigger on the planet to adjust.When you remove the stock you will see the trigger it has one screw and three nuts .Google Win m70 Trigger adjustment and it is as easy as falling of a log.

[adamjp]

Quite possibly the lock nuts have worked loose allowing the weight to come of the sear.The win model 70 would have to be the easiest trigger on the planet to adjust.When you remove the stock you will see the trigger it has one screw and three nuts .Google Win m70 Trigger adjustment and it is as easy as falling of a log.

Agreed - try adjusting it yourself first.

The classic Model 70 trigger has been justly lauded for years as being a first class trigger.

[HiWall]

Adjusting a Winchester Trigger

07 October 2001
By Paul "Pablito" Coburn
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First, the disclaimer:
In the U.S.A., we live in a litigious society, and for those of you who live in Rio Linda, this means that fools will do really stupid things, and then sue someone else, because "It's their fault, they told me I could do it!".

For those of you that don't know what you're doing, STAY AWAY FROM TRIGGERS! You can hurt someone... usually someone else.

Adjusting the trigger of a new rifle was once an expected job of the owner of a new gun, just like adjusting the seats in your new car.

Remington forbids adjustment of their triggers, and doing so will void your warranty.

However, Winchester has no concerns about you adjusting their trigger, and adjusting the Winchester trigger WON'T void your warranty.

And finally, your mileage may vary according to road conditions. If you are new at guns, and lack experience to do minor internal repairs and parts replacement, then this project may not be for you.

Do not do the following unless you are skilled enough to work on guns, and responsible enough to handle them safely. I am presenting the following article as "For Information Purposes Only".

It is SOLELY your decision whether you have the skill and ability to use this information. If you have ANY doubts as to your ability to do what is described here, then take the rifle to a qualified gunsmith!

If you have an accident, it means that you weren't skilled enough, or responsible enough, so you shouldn't have done the following. So, it's not my fault, nor the fault of Sniper Country!


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Winchester triggers are a piece of cake.
You will need a tiny 1/4", open ended wrench, (better to have two), and a very small screwdriver. Also, have a bottle of nail polish (pink;) handy to lock the screw and nuts in place after you have finished all the adjustments.

Pull the action out. There are three nuts on the trigger... the two nuts that are together, hold and lock the spring that controls the "pull weight". The single nut locks the over-travel screw in it's setting.

The engagement setting is machined into the trigger bar with a gauge, and I've never had one that had an engagement problem. If your trigger has excessive creep, don't try to file it. This is a job for a very skilled trigger 'smith, and for the cost of the labor, you are better off getting an after-market trigger like the "Jewel"!

OK...

Lay the barreled action out on a clean work space (tell your wife you'll be finished before dinner).

With the 1/4" wrench(s), loosen all three nuts.

Start by adjusting the pull weight. Move the nut "pair" down to contact the trigger, and try the weight... if it's too light, move them up towards the action, and try again, repeating as necessary until you like it.

If the pull is too heavy when the two nuts are down on the trigger, then unscrew and remove the trigger stop.
Remove the spring, and cut off one coil. Then replace the spring, and start over again.
When you have the pull weight as you like it, lock the two nuts against each other.

Next, using the small screwdriver, adjust the over-travel screw to your liking, and lock the nut against the trigger bar.

Now, put a dab of nail polish on the nuts to hold them tight.

Don't put Loctite on triggers... use women's nail polish on triggers (pink works best to hold the screws or nuts in place... Loctite can seize the small screws and nuts used in triggers, making them impossible to adjust or remove.

The Winchester nuts won't shoot loose if properly tightened, but the Remington screws WILL slowly work themselves loose over time, so they MUST have nail polish on the heads.

Finally, put it back together. Remember that the two end bolts hold the action into the stock, and require 65 inch pounds of torque (if you have a torque wrench), or to be very tight, if you just have a screwdriver.

But also remember that the middle screw is just to secure the front of the trigger guard, and hold the magazine box in place, so have it snug, but not over tight... the middle screw does NOT hold the action in place.


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[frakka]

At the end of the disclaimer for DIY trigger work on the Savage M24:

........in other words, if you don't know what you're doing, or have no business trying, don't do it. And if you do it and screw it up, don't blame us. We warned you.

[crowbuster]

Thanks to everyone that replied, some good info in there. Unfortunately the "smith" that worked on my trigger saw the need to remove metal from the trigger bar to get a very light let off. This worked well until with a bit of wear it became dangerous, hence the need for a replacement trigger.
Does anyone know of a US site that will export a drop in replacement trigger such as a Jewel or Basix, and will Australian customs allow me to do so? Otherwise I'll probably have to buy one locally at twice the cost.

Thanks again

crowbuster

[fallingblock]

crow,

you can order direct from Rifle Basix. They only charge USD$10 for shipping, which is great.

To be on the safe side get your B709 import permit from your state firearms registry.

[HiWall]

THIS is the one you want mate. Rifle Basix make a good trigger, have had a couple of L3 in Remingtons. As falling block says, B709 from Registry and order direct.

[crowbuster]

Thanks for that FB & HW, much appreciated. I may even get a replacement Basix for my Ruger M77. How much are those permits & would one permit cover several imported triggers.

Crowbuster

[doidge5781]

B709 forms are free and one form has enough space for 5-6 items

[crowbuster]

B709 forms are free and one form has enough space for 5-6 items

Free OMG, I am stunned. Thanks for the info doidge. I'll check out the Sinclair cattledog, organise the permit (the registry is in my neighbourhood) and order direct from Basix.

cheers

Crowbuster