AusVarmint

Is the chamfer tool is the one for case necks ? if so it's the wrong one for the job. Bugger all brass needs to be removed to get rid of the crimp. You'll be taking away brass that could be holding the primer. A bodgy practice that might save you a few bucks, or give you some trouble Primer pocket u...

Yep - been on the next bench to the dreaded .338 Lapua, with a brake. Made me flinch a bit !

Being readily available is a big plus...

Hi mate,try these guys.and have a chat with chris http://www.actionclear.com.au/ They are making the INCH action which is a relative newcomer. It's one of the few that's not a Remington clone, and it's rear locking design has been a source of negative perception for some people, based on the weakne...

That's pretty common for rimfires. Even after bedding/floating mine does the same

I got Redding dies and Wilson die blanks from Sinclairs no probs...didn't even look at the RCBS stuff. Their loss !

Whats a good reloading book to get? Nick Harveys book is probably the choice for a first reloading manual. I'm currently out of stock but normaly $44.25 micspa you should get the book first and read until you have a good understanding of what you need. Best thing I ever did prior to going shopping ...

So the cases were annealed to begin with ?
and then they split after sitting around for 12 months ?
or, if they weren't annealed, how do you know that annealed cases will split if stored for a fair while ?

Get some new brass, form it to 303-25, anneal it properly - if you wrecked cases previously when annealing them that would be down to technique. It's bloody hard to get very consistent doing it manually and if you are going to miss the mark it's normally by overdoing it, rather than under-annealing ...

Hawkeye77 wrote: But what if that group was half that again!!!
Hawk

And another accuracy nut is hooked.....I reckon you've just got the bug Hawkeye77 !!

Alex, plenty of people get by without an OAL tool. It's main use is for when you want to seat bullets very close or just touching the lands. If you want to get shooting quickly without too much fiddling, just load to the factory OAL. You can fine tune from there as you get familiar with the process

With a new collet die it's a good move to lube (a tiny bit of grease) the inside of the collet die where the taper on the collet bears against the sleeve to squeeze the collet closed, and check for any burrs, remove them with some fine grade Wet'n'Dry paper

The no.1 thing with any new rifle is to thoroughly clean out the factory preservative ! Stuff that's meant to stop it rusting if it sits around for years before it gets sold. Oil in the barrel will cause a bulge if not cleaned out before shooting. A bullet doesn't push the oil ahead of it - the barr...

Hi bunnysniper - do take some time to check out the various 6mm options, if you are forking out the $$ for a rebarrel, new stock etc you have a lot of extra potential to be had without (much) extra cost ! There's 6BR, 6/6.5x47 Lapua, 6/250, dies and brass cost a bit more but worth it and there's bet...

Sounds like it'll be a mean machine ! as for bullet weight, depends on what ranges you'll shoot at most. If you were going to reserve it for the extreme long shots, throat for the heavy bullets. or maybe you could start out with a throat to suit 140gn bullets and then switch to longer bullets as the...